IN SEASON
Seasonal chef
HEAD CHEF AT LEWTRENCHARD MANOR, MATT PERYER LOOKS TO THE SEA FOR INSPIRATION THIS SEASON
FILLETS OF LEMON SOLE, BAKED LEEK, MUSSEL AND CLAM CHOWDER Serves 2
People forget that, like fruit and vegetables, fi sh also have seasons when they are at their best to eat. Some of the fi sh that are in season in and around March are lemon sole, monkfi sh, brill, cod and haddock. So for the menu I would be looking at what we have to use from the kitch- en garden here at Lewtrenchard Manor to create dishes. March is a diffi cult time of the year as you are at the tail end of winter and spring has not started to produce a massive amount of vegetables. Generally, the veggies I may have to use are caulifl ower, Jerusalem artichokes, leeks or purple sprouting broccoli and a few others.
A I would also be looking at
shellfi sh or meat as an alternative garnish to accompany my main ingredient. Mussels, clams and oysters are great shellfi sh available in March and oxtail, pork belly and chicken wings work really well with some fi sh.
Devon and Cornwall have some of the best fi shmongers in the country, so go along to your local fi shmonger and buy local. They will probably tell you when, where and how the fi sh was caught and would be able to do most of the prepara- tion for you if you wish.
fter living in Jersey for almost 7 years surrounded by the sea I love cooking and eating fi sh.
❤ 2 lemon soles fi lleted and skinned
❤ 300g mussels ❤ 300g clams ❤ 4 leeks ❤ 2 large potato ❤ 2 shallots ❤ 2 clove garlic ❤ 150ml white wine ❤ 250ml cream ❤ 100g smoked bacon ❤ Thyme ❤ Parsley
1 Trim the sole fi llets, removing any loose fl esh. Lay one fi llet of sole in front of you on a chopping board you will notice there is a thick end and a thin end. Lay another fi llet on top of the fi rst fi llet the opposite way, then repeat this with all of the fi llets. Once you have done this, skewer the fi llets using 6 cocktail sticks to hold them together. Trim and square off the ends to neaten and then cut in half so that you end up with 2 portions. Place in the fridge to chill.
2 Now the chowder, thinly slice 2 of the leeks and rinse them very thoroughly. Cut the bacon into short, thin strips and put them into a deep, thick- bottomed pan with the butter. Let the bacon colour lightly over a moderate heat. Turn down the heat, add the leeks and cover with a lid. Leave them to cook for twenty minutes or so, with an occasional stir, until they are soft and sweet, they should not colour. Remove from the heat.
28 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER
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