way for sensitive skin
response and protects the skin from irritations. All these activities have been proven by several efficiency tests (in vitro, in vivo).
Action on inflammatory response Against external aggressions, an inflammatory response occurs to defend the skin. In the case of sensitive skin, this response is inadequate. The production of inflammation mediators is too excessive and needs to be regulated. The efficiency on the inflammatory response of the quince extract has been evaluated on two major mediators, the pro-inflammatory cytokines tumor
necrosis factor- (TNF-) and interleukin 8 (IL-8). TNF- is a multifunctional cytokine that plays a fundamental role in skin inflammation. It
mediates inflammation, immune response and apoptosis and is essential for the upregulation of IL-8 mRNA expression4
. IL-8 is a chemokine that
plays a central role in the initiation and maintenance of inflammatory responses. The assays are based on the evaluation of inflammatory mediator’s production and secretion by normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) activated by a lipopolysaccharide (LPS)
pro-inflammatory stress. The release of TNF- and IL-8 by human keratinocytes in response to LPS-induced inflammation, was evaluated on control culture and on culture treated with three concentrations (5 µg/mL; 12.5 µg/mL; 25 µg/mL) of quince extract. Concurrently, dexamethasone (39.2 µg/mL) was used as a positive control.
In these tests, levels of TNF- and IL-8 were significantly decreased comparatively to the control (Figure 1). Moreover, the down-regulating production was dose-dependent in the range of
-49% -61% -75%
100 80 60 40 20 0
Control 5 µg/ml 12.5 µg/ml 25 µg/ml Dexamethasone cells
(39.2 µg/ml) Quince extract
100 80 60 40 20 0
Control 5 µg/ml 12.5 µg/ml 25 µg/mlDexamethasone cells
(39.2 µg/ml) Quince extract Figure 1: Effect of quince extract on diminution of TNF- and IL-8 production the tested concentrations. When cells were
treated with quince extract at 25 µg/mL, TNF- level was reduced by 75% and IL-8 level by 69%. Datas indicate that quince extract has the ability to significantly modulate the pro-inflammatory response. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory effects, it could decrease discomfort feelings.
Soothing properties
Fifteen volunteers all with sensitive skin, aged between 23 and 49 (12 women and 3 men), tested a face cream containing 0.5% quince extract. The soothing activity of the face cream was initially evaluated by performing a stinging test on the volunteers. In order to recruit volunteers, a 10% acid lactic solution was applied to a nasolabial fold in order to create an itching sensation. Then a solution of physiological serum was applied to the other nasolabial fold. The itching sensations were evaluated, on a scale of 1 to 4, by each volunteer at 30 seconds, 2 and 5 minutes after the application. The fifteen volunteers selected were those that scored 4 or more. They then applied the cream with 0.5% quince extract for the next 5 days. Two other stinging tests were carried out 15 minutes (immediate effect) and 5 days (cumulative effect) after the cream application (Figure 2). The clinical tests revealed a statistically significant soothing activity, with an immediate and cumulative effect. The itching sensations had decreased by 30% immediately and by 39% after 5 days of use. The quince extract soothed the skin and improved its comfort. The volunteers also carried out self-assessments to illustrate more specifically the benefit of this skin cream to the
-40% -50% -69%
5 4 3 2 1 0
D0 Without cream Cream with 0.5% of quince extract
Figure 2: Immediate and cumulative soothing effects of quince extract
T - 15 min D5
user. After 5 days of using the cream containing 0.5% of the extract, they noted that their skin was relieved (75%), more comfortable (75%) and better prepared to environmental aggressions (70%). Finally, 70% of the volunteers felt a well- being sensation by using the cream.
Quince leaves are an interesting source of polyphenols. Berkem has developed an extraction process, which concentrates their bioactive compounds, to obtain a new quince leaf extract with high polyphenol content, in particular from the glycosylated flavonoids family. It soothes the skin by decreasing discomfort sensations, reducing the inflammatory response and also protects the skin from irritations. Thanks to its properties, the quince extract can be used in sensitive skin products and in soothing and calming skincare.
To learn more about the quince leaf extract, please visit Berkem at Stand 3K19.
1. Pauly, G., et al. (2009) New peptidic active ingredient to reduce discomfort and painful sensations in sensitive skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 31, 480-480
2. Oliveira, A.P., et al. (2012) Targeted metabolites and biological activities of Cydonia oblonga Miller leaves. Food Research International 46, 496-504
3. Rahman, I., et al. (2006) Regulation of inflammation and redox signaling by dietary polyphenols. Biochemical pharmacology 72, 1439-1452
4. Bernard, F.-X., et al. (2012) Keratinocytes under Fire of Proinflammatory Cytokines: Bona Fide Innate Immune Cells Involved in the Physiopathology of Chronic Atopic Dermatitis and Psoriasis. Journal of Allergy 2012, 10
-30%
-39%
Induction of TNF- (%)
Induction of IL-8 (%)
Stinging test (scores)
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68