COSMETICS BUSINESS LIVE
SILVERSON
Half the energy, half the time: How high shear can transform
your manufacturing process Speaker James Cardus
H
igh shear mixing is a technology that has been established and proven over the past 75 years across
multiple industries.
High shear offers an efficient and intensive mixing process that disperses powders, breaks down agglomerates, homogenises mixtures, generates stable emulsions and speeds up mixing times significantly.
In cosmetic applications, the Silverson High Shear Mixer does all of these things at once and yet many are unaware of the additional benefits that these mixers can provide in addition to the step-change in product quality.
With the current focus on energy usage, cost and process efficiency, the Silverson Mixer can reduce energy use, save time and, as a result, cut costs on some of the more significant overheads that cosmetics manufacturers are focussing on today.
WHAT IS THE SILVERSON MIXER? First of all though, a brief explanation to what the Silverson Mixer is, what it does, how it works and why it is so popular and critical for cosmetics applications is useful.
A Silverson Mixer is comprised of two primary components responsible for imparting shear to the mixture.
The rotor acts in a similar way to a conventional paddle stirrer, albeit it rotates at a much higher speed. The stator, as the name suggests, is a static component enclosing the rotor to a very fine tolerance. It is in the gap between these high speed and static components where the mixture is subjected to high shear forces.
Cosmetic products have the challenge of containing both liquid and powder ingredients, which need to be dispersed, dissolved and emulsified: all processes which are rapidly accelerated with the introduction of high shear.
Powder thickeners like xanthan gum, carbomers and gelatine are hydrated quickly and efficiently as the high shear workhead both rapidly disperses the powder, and breaks up agglomerates to complete hydration.
Some functional ingredients can require shear in order to activate them and achieve the performance that the product label claims.
More aesthetic components like colourants and fragrances benefit from high shear a great deal, as it ensures fast
SOIL ASSOCIATION
COSMOS ORGANIC IS A SOLUTION TO GREENWASHING IN THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY Speaker Paige Tracey
What is greenwashing, why is it a particular issue in the beauty industry, and what can be done to challenge it? Greenwashing is, as defined by the
Oxford English Dictionary, “disinformation disseminated by an organisation so as to present an environmentally responsible public image”. It is a particular issue in the beauty industry because terms such as ‘clean’, ‘green’, ‘organic’ and ‘natural’ are so unregulated. A (beauty) company can have just 1% organic ingredients in their product and be able to label that product as organic. However, greenwashing is a dirty
marketing tactic that consumers are becoming more aware of. Data shows 52% of consumers do not trust brands to be honest about their environmental impact. However, from the same group of consumers, 42% would be encouraged to see a brand as more sustainable if it had third party accreditation proving its standards.
66 December 2022 This is where Soil Association COSMOS
Organic comes in. COSMOS Organic is the largest international standard for organic cosmetics, certifying 80% of the global market. Soil Association is a founding member of the standard and Soil Association Certification is the only UK- based body that certifies to it. What also sets Soil Association apart is that licence fees, which are paid to Soil Association Certification (a registered business), go back into the Soil Association charity. This means certifying with us helps the
charity’s mission in campaigning for better standards in food, farming and animal welfare, along with better food in public institutions like schools through the Food for Life scheme. The process for certifying to the Soil Association COSMOS Organic standard is a rigorous one. First and foremost, product formulations must have a minimum percentage of ingredients derived from organic agriculture: 95% of a product’s
Physically Processed Agricultural Ingredients – which are farmed ingredients that have gone through a physical process, such a crushing or blending – must be organic. This includes things like shea butter and oils; for a product to be COSMOS Organic certified, these kinds of ingredients must originate from organic farming. There are however many ingredients common in beauty products that cannot be “organic” because they are not farmed. This includes water, clays, and salt. For products with a high percentage of
such ingredients, we also certify to the COSMOS Natural standard. The main difference from COSMOS
Organic is that there is no minimum organic ingredient percentage. However, you offer your consumer the same guarantees that naturally derived ingredients have been sourced sustainably, that you are not using endangered plants,
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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