COSMETICS BUSINESS LIVE
the investment in that product and that packaging, the energy that you get from that, can be reused to change your behaviours in other areas. So, you’ll take out the waste that you’ve got in life, in one respect, and focus on something that really is luxury. From a manufacturing perspective, there is so much we can do now in terms of shortening the supply chain, thinking about materials we use, using more wisely and taking parts out of it. I’d encourage everybody in here to think about how you educate your customers about your packaging itself and how they dispose of it after use. If there’s one important thing today that we could communicate, it is that education part: tell people what you’re doing in terms of your sustainable journey and how you’ve developed your packaging. It’s very complex to know what to do with the packaging at the end of life. So I would recommend to brands to be broad: instead of saying ‘this packaging is fully recyclable’, you should say ‘packaging is deemed recyclable, but we can’t guarantee they will be recycled within your living space’. So make sure that you check locally what you can do with your packaging.
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It’s difficult, because in luxury you have to make packaging heavy
What kind of trajectory do you see with adding weight to luxury packaging? Lagarde: It’s difficult, because in luxury you have to make packaging heavy, that’s why there’s a lot of weight that will be added to things. The complexity of that is obviously that this is not recyclable then, because you have a mix of materials. I think heavy is still going to be the standard in our industry, because, when you talk to people, when you try to remove the weight in the mascara or in the lipstick, they’re like ‘oh, it feels cheap’. So, we’re going to need some time to educate consumers – it’s probably going to be five to ten years – to take them on that journey that, actually, packaging doesn’t need to be heavy. One way to do that is to use a ceramic cap because ceramic is quite heavy but there’s nothing added. Think about the monomateriality of the packaging, or making it a keepsake. Dipple: What we’re talking about here is one sense. We respond to products through our senses, so when we pick it up, one sense is being triggered. But then you’ve got so many other things you can do. Take the paper coating on the top of the product: if you use something that sends off triggers to your touch sense, if you’ve got the right visual impact for your eyes – you’re seeing something that’s beautiful – at the end of the day, it’s a compromise. You’ve got to think about all these things. For example, by using dense grey board, because it’s thinner, you can make a product that is less damaging to the environment, just by choosing better quality materials. We’ve got a pack we’re designing at the moment where we’re using laser engraving, but mixing other print techniques in with it, so that we’re only engraving the areas where we touch with our hands, but your eyes are being persuaded that the whole image has been engraved.
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You end up with something that has a super high-impact.
What are the key regulations and restrictions we should be aware of? Lagarde: Single-use plastic in 2030 in Europe will be prohibited. There is also the removal of non- recyclable material, so anything that doesn’t come into a recycling stream in Europe is going to be prohibited to put on the market. ABS is a good example. Because even though ABS is recycled in an industrial way, there’s no public recycling streams, so it’s in discussion right now whether we’re going to be able to keep ABS. Dipple: We’ve got the extended producer responsibilities kicking in, in January next year, which covers a requirement to record much of your usage of packaging materials. The legislation is far-reaching and it will drive us all to think differently about packaging. Lagarde: There’s a lot of regulation in France that’s very stringent, where you have to indicate on your packaging – and with specific details – about what the packaging is made of and how you recycle each piece of the packaging. In Italy, you’ve got the same problem and this is going to come in other countries I’m sure, where you have to be more specific in what you say on your pack. And there’s going to be some tax as well on this. When you look at the Cosmetics Regulation, it’s all about the formulation and the ingredients and the chemicals that you put in your formulation, now it’s all about the packaging. The European Commission is also working on the standard for packaging, what actually is sustainable packaging? So they’re going to come up with a definition.
Educating consumers is a challenge – are there any key tips? Lagarde: I think you shouldn’t talk about sustainability. Because it’s a really tricky space and if you say something then you might go wrong. You should develop your product to be as sustainable as possible, you should explain how your product packaging is recycled, etc, but don’t promote your sustainability, because this comes with backlash. Something that is true today may not be true tomorrow, and this is not your fault: regulation is evolving, materials are evolving and so information is evolving too. Dipple: I think packaging is a great format for all marketing departments to deliver a message. The most simple way of doing this is having a QR code on your pack; you can have those discreetly designed into your pack to educate the clients or your customers. Let’s take a step forward and actually get that information out there. Lagarde: I think we also need to be worried about ‘eco-anxiety’, because it’s a real thing. And so, when we talk about the sustainability aspect and educating consumers, we put pressure on them too, because they have the pressure of disposing of the product at the end-of-use. But we need to make sure that it is as easy as possible
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