COSMETICS BUSINESS LIVE
B
espoke beauty has huge potential but what is required for the category to truly take off? This panel brought
together experts from Mintel, Experimental Perfume Club, Skin Trust Club and Skin + Me to provide a deeper understanding of the ways personalised beauty can be delivered and the challenges involved. The panel was moderated by Cosmetics Business’ Julia Wray.
Emmanuelle, when setting up Experimental Perfume Club how important was personalisation? Emmanuelle Moeglin: Personalisation of perfume is a USP of the company. I’d worked within the perfumery business for many years and I was quite surprised by how disconnected the consumer was from the perfume. Most consumers buy a fragrance for the brand rather than what’s in the formula. But education around perfumery is becoming more prominent. For me, ‘personalisation’ is education and is core for engaging with customers to help them personalise fragrance.
And Jason, how does Skin + Me’s model work? Dr Jason Thomson: We’ve got the customer in front of one of our dermatology teams: they’re looking at photographs. The customer has also given them information about what they’re wanting to treat: is it acne, is it fine lines and wrinkles? And we’re getting lots of other information, like what’s your skin type? Are you sensitive to different skin care ingredients? And you piece all of this together to work out what to prescribe the customer in front of you. Any ingredient that is potentially going to be an irritant, we tweak the strengths or omit it, or add in multifunctional ingredients. You can change the strengths each month – so people are on a bit of a journey.
Skin Trust Club works with brands – can you tell us about your approach? Nicola Meldrum: Skin Trust Club’s approach to personalisation is very much led by science. We’re trying to educate consumers about the science of the skin, specifically the skin microbiome. Our report will tell you exactly what kinds of bacteria are living on your skin and in what quantities, and how this affects your skin. There’s also no subjectivity in our process and we’re
44 December 2022
The personalisation panel from left to right: Samantha Dover, Emmanuelle Moeglin, Nicola Meldrum and Dr Jason Thomson
PANEL III
THE FUTURE OF PERSONALISATION
Moderator Julia Wray, Editor, Cosmetics Business Panellists Samantha Dover, Category Director, Mintel Beauty & Personal Care
Emmanuelle Moeglin, founder, Experimental Perfume Club Nicola Meldrum, Marketing Manager, Skin Trust Club Dr Jason Thomson, Head of Medical, Skin + Me
brand agnostic. There are some amazing brands out there and we’re really a tool to help people navigate a space that can be really confusing. Currently, we’ve got 20 brand partners.
What other interpretations of personalisation are we seeing? Samantha Dover: It feels like everyone is testing the waters. We’ve seen some moves from big industry players right
the way through to niche and indie brands. Amorepacific, a big company, launched
Custom.Me for sensitive skin, while smaller players like Veracity do hormonal testing for skin care. There is personalised hair care; soap, bath and shower; and you are seeing shade customisation in make-up and hair colourants. So there’s a huge amount going on from a new product development perspective. But one thing
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