COSMETICS BUSINESS LIVE
of the phytonutrients that are within the full tomato. So Lycored standardises the levels of each of the phytonutrients in the extracts that it provides, which are liquid extracts that can go into soft gels, to target particular health indications. Lycomato is the name of the first extract provided 25 years ago. From there, the company looked at the other synergistic ingredients that would make it work even better.
The next product launched was
Lycoderm, based on Lycomato, but also combined with another Mediterranean diet ingredient, rosemary. Together, they had a much better effect on reducing inflammation or oxidative damage. Last but not least, there is Luminato. This comes from the yellow tomato, or golden tomato. It is made up of a totally different combination, because it is mostly phytoene and phytofluene, so it’s not red! But it still has ingredients that are particularly relevant to things like collagen boosting, also skin hydration and skin barrier function.
The skin care range covers quite a few different areas. There’s overall wellness; we also have the vegan collagen-boosting effect across all of the range, but particularly with Luminato; ageing gracefully, so fine lines and wrinkles reduction; and blood flow for a vital look. There’s also beauty immunity, which is the idea of the immune cells in your skin, the skin being the largest organ that’s a barrier to infection and inflammation.
And skin calm is about keeping the redness down from any stressors, and also skin nourishment. With Lycomato, key claims you can make for the whole extract of tomato include overall skin health and also increased blood flow, balancing inflammation and oxidative stress. It also supports skin resilience, particularly to environmental stressors. Lycoderm is doing quite a lot of different things. Claims can differ depending on the region of the world you’re in, and the regulatory impact in each of those. However, there is reduction of fine line and wrinkles; reduction of collagen damage and supporting collagen synthesis; and sun care, so reduced erythema – that means the redness and response to UV.
It also provides resilience to environmental factors and a healthy glow and radiance
cosmeticsbusiness.com
MELBEC
VEGAN ACCREDITED MICROBIOLOGY TESTING: THE FUTURE OF COSMETICS & PERSONAL CARE PRODUCTS
Speaker Natalie Callaghan
Vegan cosmetics are the fastest growing vegan market, and the fastest growing area within the cosmetics industry. In 2020, 82% of all new vegan items launched in the UK came under the beauty category, and it has been predicted that the global vegan cosmetics industry will be worth a whopping US$21.4bn by 2027. For cosmetics manufacturers, the release of new products, including vegan ones, is
subjected to mandatory microbiology testing under GB and EU regulations. These regulations state that products must be tested by law to ensure their safety and efficacy for end users prior to their release onto market. Testing usually involves three different elements:
1. Preservative Efficacy Testing (PET), or Challenge Testing, which assesses whether microorganisms introduced during normal and reasonably foreseeable use will not negatively affect the quality or safety of the product;
2.Stability Testing, which is completed to ensure that the cosmetic product maintains its intended physical, chemical and microbiological quality, as well as functionality and aesthetics when stored under appropriate conditions;
3. Quality Control (QC), also known as batch release testing, which involves testing a batch of products before they are released to consumers to check levels of microorganisms present within a product do not exceed safety limits or could cause harm to end users. For some large retailers and supermarkets, it is preferred that the testing of
cosmetics products is completed using accredited standards. These accredited standards include stringent requirements, such as specified use of
standard culture media and neutralisers. Most standard culture media, however, contains elements derived from animal-based products. In the late 1800s, scientists like Louis Pasteur and Robert Koch were the first to
create culture media, experimenting with components including dairy, animal serums, meat extracts and coagulated egg. Over time and into the modern day, most of the culture media used in laboratories
today is still based on these original formulations. For vegan product manufacturers, this creates somewhat of an ethical dilemma as the mandatory testing means the process of marketing products still involves the use of animal-based products.
Vegan solutions At Melbec Microbiology, a UKAS accredited testing laboratory (No. 8615), we offer accredited microbiology testing for beauty and cosmetic products, and work with customers across many continents to deliver the best service and support for all. Melbec has established the use of vegan alternative culture media components and is able to offer vegan alternative solutions to testing for its customers. This includes the use of plant-based alternative components including plant hydrolysates, vegetable peptones and corn and pea sugars within our vegan formulations. In addition, we have worked closely with UKAS accreditors to assess the performance of our vegan alternatives in comparison to the standard culture media. Through many months of validation work, we have successfully extended our scope of accreditation to include accreditation for PET and QC testing using vegan alternative media. Not only that, but all our vegan alternatives are registered
with the Vegan Society, who are a trusted trademark for vegan consumers. Testing using vegan alternatives isn’t just for vegan products
either – for some cosmetic product manufacturers, it may not be possible for your products to be vegan, but we can still offer testing for any product types using our vegan alternative solutions.
December 2022 47
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