COSMETICS BUSINESS LIVE
COPTIS
Digital R&D: Support innovation from customers’ needs to market
compliance Speaker Flora Pensé
T
he dynamic world of cosmetics is in continuous evolution with much attention focused on safety but also on environmental issues. As consumers become ever more sophisticated in their awareness and knowledge of ingredients, they are scrutinising labels and driving the huge demand for ‘clean’, non-toxic and sustainable beauty.
New emerging formulations trends are becoming more important and essential in driving innovation in product development. ‘Clean’ beauty, environmentally-friendly sun care products, vegan power, no plastic, etc, are some examples of the ‘clean’ beauty claims phenomenon, which began in skin care and make-up and which now extends to all categories of beauty products.
THE CHALLENGE FOR FORMULATORS As a result, the selection of the most relevant cosmetic raw materials according to the formulator’s product development becomes more and more challenging.
Formulators must be aware of sourcing characteristics of the raw materials: how ingredients are obtained and what is involved in the production or supply chain process with trends for green cosmetics, sustainable, fair trade or information on the ingredient’s carbon footprint. The focus is not just on ingredient transparency, but also how products are sourced and manufactured.
cosmeticsbusiness.com
Coptis’ Flora Pensé told delegates how technology can help businesses optimise their ingredients data
At the same time formulators must also be able to comply with brand constraints: cruelty-free products, paraben-free, organic, vegan, but also with beauty retailers’ banned ingredients listing based on ‘clean’ beauty claims, as seen for Sephora, Whole Foods and Credo.
From product formulation all the way through to labelling, indie brands and large companies are facing a multitude of challenges in terms of consumer-focused products.
HOW TECHNOLOGY CAN HELP An archaic process that involves performing regulatory and market compliance checks at the end uses manual calculation, and contracts with costly external consulting services can waste precious development time. So how can beauty businesses embrace technology to digitalise their data and address these regulatory needs? Collaborative and transversal data organisation helps with proactivity during all the steps of product development. Optimised databases improve search capabilities and result in optimal ingredients knowledge. R&D teams are saving precious development time with automated alerts on market constraints, brand blacklists and regulatory issues.
A successful digital transformation of the modern laboratory is key to solving the complex product development challenges. With digital R&D you can design innovative, safe, sustainable and compliant beauty products
December 2022 27
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