COSMETICS BUSINESS LIVE
CLARIANT Speaker Julie Droux
NATURE-INSPIRED INNOVATION: FROM RESURRECTION PLANTS TO SKIN RESILIENCE
Resurrection plants grow in deserts, where they have developed original biological pathways to resist drought and hot temperatures. When they are unable to find enough water in their surrounding environment to maintain normal biological processes, they dehydrate and put themselves in a pause mode until better environmental conditions return. To protect themselves, they activate a specific
defence mechanism that relies on high antioxidant capacities, DNA repair and protection from protein damage. The mechanism is based on the production of high levels of protective sugars called RFOs (raffinose family oligosaccharides), whose synthesis pathway starts with a molecule called galactinol. Galactinol is also found in other plants and recent
studies demonstrated it is involved in biological processes used by plants to overcome heat stress. With the clear changes happening to the Earth’s
climate, human beings will be exposed more frequently to severe weather conditions, such as intense dryness or extremely hot temperatures, as we endured this past year. These intense episodes of heat, dryness and UV
radiation directly impact our skin, accelerating signs of ageing. Skin’s resilience is being tested and it will need support to cope and stay healthy. Inspired by nature, Clariant developed Galactinol
Advanced, an active ingredient that boosts the skin’s defence mechanisms to intense sun and heat exposure. Obtained by an eco-friendly process based on
biocatalysis, the production of Galactinol Advanced starts from agricultural by-products and avoids the use of toxic reagents and solvents. This active ingredient responds to the current need of consumers for responsibly-sourced ingredients.
Boosting skin’s resilience by stimulating biological defence systems Sun exposure is particularly harmful for the skin. UVA is responsible for long term damage such as photoageing and UVB causes sunburn. The negative effects of UV rays can be seen on skin cells, such as fibroblasts or keratinocytes, when they are exposed to UV stress. In comparison, when these cells are pre-treated with Galactinol Advanced, their morphology is protected. Also, the maintenance of proper homeostasis and
morphology of skin cells depends on the correct conformation of the proteins they synthesise. This conformation is controlled by other proteins, called Heat Shock Proteins (HSPs). HSPs are guardians of a protein’s quality. In particular, HSP27 plays a role as a skin homeostasis protector,
26 December 2022
but also helps cells cope with environmental stress such as UV exposure and pollution. Galactinol Advanced demonstrated through in
vitro evaluation that it stimulates the synthesis of HSP27 in basal conditions (+259%), but especially in conditions of high temperature (40°C) and dryness (45% relative humidity), which corresponds to weather conditions that many countries encountered during the summer of 2022.
Improving relationships between the skin & its microbiota Skin microbiota is crucial for the preservation of skin health. The relationships between the skin and the live microorganisms present at its surface are essential, as they produce molecules that provide strong benefits to the skin. To evaluate the effects of 2% Galactinol Advanced versus placebo on the skin-microbiota interactions in challenging environments, a metaproteomic study was conducted on 20 photo-exposed women. We demonstrated that after 28 days of treatment,
thanks to its microbiota-friendly approach, Galactinol Advanced was found not to alter the proportions of microorganisms in the skin. Even better, the functional link between the skin and its microbiota was positively modulated via essential pathways and metabolic processes.
Ensuring healthy ageing under severe climatic conditions After 28 days of application, Galactinol Advanced significantly improved the volume of crow’s feet by 19%. Elasticity (Ue parameter) and firmness (R0 parameter) were significantly increased by 18.2% and 5.5% respectively. In the pictures taken before and after the treatment, wrinkles are visibly reduced.
Galactinol Advanced efficiently
preserves the youth of skin exposed to challenges such as frequent sun exposure. This makes it a good candidate to support skin’s health when facing changing climates. Just as galactinol does for plants, Galactinol
Advanced supports skin’s resilience in severe climate conditions. It strengthens the skin and also reinforces the interactions between the skin and its microbiota to stimulate the production of proteins implied in defence mechanisms. Inspired by plants and produced by an
environmentally-friendly biotechnological process, Galactinol Advanced is a new active ingredient tailored to addressing the new challenges to which our skin is exposed.
cosmeticsbusiness.com
Clariant’s latest ingredient harnesses galactinol, used by desert plants such as Mesembryanthemum to help skin deal with extreme weather conditions
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