BRANDS FUNGI
when global stress levels are at an all time high.
At the end of 2022, nearly two out of five (37%) Americans rated their mental health as only fair or poor, according to the American Psychiatric Association. “[Mushrooms] have the ability to help the body in supporting its response to stress,” Brown adds. The lion’s mane mushroom, in particular, has been trending on TikTok for this reason, with over 630.3 million searches at the time of writing, as the fungi is said to improve focus and help those with ADHD.
Reishi is another popular mushroom which has caught consumer attention on social media, as it reportedly aids in calming the nervous system. Hakeem-Oyawoye believes documentaries, such as Netflix’s Fantastic Fungi, have also helped the ingredient’s reputation in the West. “We know that consumers research things now more than ever, and want to know how products can relate to their specific problem and needs,” she adds. “So I think the documentaries available are definitely helping.” Irina Ene, Mintel’s Beauty Manager, says the desire for products with fungi has increased this year as consumers are looking for products that target multiple issues. Mushrooms specifically have properties which balance mood, while reducing skin irritation, she continues. This is coupled with emotional and physical benefits from anti-stress and energy boosting. “As consumers become more knowledgeable about the quality and provenance of ingredients, the generous nutrient profile of diverse mushroom species can help brands to develop products that respond to complex needs,” adds Ene.
MUSHROOM MARKETING Dr Marie Drago, founder of microbiome skin care brand Gallinée, has welcomed the trend, but says work still needs to
be done to market mushrooms successfully.
Compared with more glamorous beauty ingredients, such as shea butter or lavender, mushrooms have a scent and image which is not typically associated with beauty products, she explains: “It is harder because people have an expectation of what natural ingredients should look like.” Consumers have become accustomed to seeing plants and flowers on product packaging and descriptions. “The problem with mushrooms and the problem with bacteria is that they have an image problem.” Andrew and Simon Salter, the founders of mushroom powder brand Dirtea, agree that fungi have had a “bad rap for years”. “We’ve left mushrooms in the dark corners of our culture and many of us grew up and were told by our authority figures not to touch mushrooms because they are poisonous, or they will take you on a spiritual journey,” they explain.
This baggage has even created a term called mycophobia, which is the irrational fear of mushrooms. However, the duo say the newfound “fascination and curiosity” is a step in the right direction in winning over beauty shoppers.
“Mushrooms are complex, multifaceted organisms and opinions about them vary and can be extreme. “But just like anything else carrying the weight of hundreds of years of stigma and misunderstanding, in a time of accumulating knowledge you win back the truth.”
The mushroom trend has coincided with an increased understanding of the human microbiome in recent years, claims Drago.
“It sounds a bit philosophical, but I think we have really shifted from a very mechanical view of the human body to
Beauty and wellness labels like Green People and Dirtea are banking on the magic of mushrooms
something more in line with biodiversity. The whole idea of wellness and holistic beauty is that you cannot fix just one thing, and mushrooms and the microbiome are two sides of the same coin in this regard.”
As a result, Drago is confident that more consumers will be able to look past the fear of putting a fungus on their face or in their bodies. This is due to a shift in consumer demand for “efficient beauty”, she argues.
“If brands can show results and offer a strong reason for including the ingredient in the beauty product, then consumers will be more open to understanding it.”
ARE MUSHROOMS HERE TO STAY? While fungi are trending at the moment, will mushroom-focused beauty products stand the test of time?
Drago believes that beyond the retail space, mushrooms are more than just a trend, particularly in regard to research into microscopic mushrooms. “Mushrooms and bacteria are little factories that can manufacture so many active ingredients,” she explains. “That is really a big trend in future beauty, especially with the scale of looking at what this living organism can do for you.” However, for beauty brands keen to incorporate mushrooms as an ingredient into products, proper research is imperative, says Hakeem-Oyawoye. “Do the research on which claims you are making, as your creative ingredient story really needs to be focused in terms of what your messaging is. If you are creating something that is anti-inflammatory, make sure you choose the mushroom that targets that specific issue.”
She says brands can fall into the trap of seeing trending ingredients, but not putting in the work to find out how to create the most symbiotic formulation. “What are you going to put into that formulation that will work well with the mushrooms, boost activity and create a 360-degree solution to whatever [skin care or wellness issue] you are targeting?”
The Salters are ultimately positive about the staying power of mushrooms in the coming years: “There are 14,000 mushrooms which have been classified, and with 2,000 species thought to be edible or medicinal we are only just on the prologue of what more is out there in the field to be discovered to improve the betterment of our wellbeing”
52 April 2023
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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