BRANDS FUNGI
MUSHROOM MANIA
After a three-year hiatus, mushrooms have returned to the beauty industry in full force. But where did fungi’s revitalised popularity sprout from? Alessandro Carrara reports
T
he beauty industry is currently in the grips of mushroom takeover in 2023. After being picked up as a burgeoning trend
for the Western market in 2020, the conversation around fungi largely went back underground for a time. But that all changed in January of this year after a study from department store chain John Lewis placed mushrooms as one of the top ingredients to watch this year. Tomas Warwick, John Lewis’ Head of Skincare and Wellness, said that fungi were set to take over the world of beauty, thanks to their well-known anti-inflammatory and skin soothing properties. His prediction turned out to be correct, as an increasing number of beauty brands have already launched fungi-infused products.
Origins, Shiseido and Dermalogica have created face mists, eye creams and serums containing mushrooms to cater to increased consumer demand. Neon Hippie, an entirely mushroom- based skin care brand, launched into the US market in February. That same month, Green People launched its Nordic Roots Truffle Night Cream, with the staple ingredient being wild harvested in Finnish forests. In March, Pai Skincare also made its mushroom debut with its new Tri- Mushoom Boosters, containing reishi, chaga and cordyceps mushrooms.
50 April 2023
But it is not just the beauty industry which has become enamoured with fungi, as mushroom-related content on TikTok has a staggering 6.2 billion views on the platform.
The interest in mushrooms from
TikTokers stems not only from how they can be used in food dishes, but also as inspiration for home decor and art. In Australia, the use of psilocybin (aka magic mushrooms) has even been approved by the country’s regulators for use in treating certain mental health conditions, starting 1 July 2023. Topping all of this off has been the explosive popularity of TV series The Last of Us, which aired its final episode in March. Based on the hit 2013 video game about an apocalyptic world afflicted by a viral mushroom outbreak, the series’ debut episode drew in over 4.7 million viewers.
It is safe to say interest in mushrooms is at an all time high, but what else is behind the ingredient’s return? And is it really here to stay?
WHAT IS BEHIND THE RETURN OF MUSHROOMS IN 2023? The health benefits of mushrooms are certainly not a new phenomenon. Research from Mintel shows that mushrooms have increased adaptogenic potential, which offers strong beauty formulas for brands creating anti-stress and wellness products.
Mushrooms are reputed for their rich nutrient profile, as they contain B vitamins, skin-essential minerals like copper, potassium and selenium, as well as a variety of antioxidant compounds. It is no wonder fungi have been a staple in traditional Japanese and Chinese medicine for centuries for treating skin inflammation and neurological disorders.
But it was the Covid-19 outbreak which rekindled consumer interest in fungi in the West, says Kamara Hakeem-Oyawoye, Brand Manager at beauty brand consultancy firm The Red Tree. This is largely to do with people becoming more aware of their health as a result of the global pandemic, and exploring more natural options with the beauty products they choose to purchase.
“As time goes on, consumers are leaning towards this whole concept that natural [products] are best, but they are also becoming more educated.” But why are mushrooms being sought after specifically?
“They are extraordinary ingredients, incredibly versatile and have these just majestic and mystical properties,” says Sarah Brown, founder of Pai Skincare. “They are the ultimate adaptogens as mushrooms contain an amino acid called glutamine, which helps dial down the skin’s response to stress.” She says the resurgence comes at a time
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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