INGREDIENTS CERAMIDES
maintains the skin’s barrier function, stimulates natural ceramide synthesis and increases hydration; Omega 3 Ceramide Flax optimises neuronal communication, reduces skin reactivity, limits irritation, regulates skin stress and increases cell cohesion; and Omega 9 Ceramide Olive or Argan improves cutaneous elasticity and firmness, and restores barrier function. Finally, Ceralink+ is a unique complex combining ceramide 3 and Omega 6 Ceramide Safflower. It has a two-step biomimetic action, immediately strengthening the cohesion and impermeability of the damaged skin barrier, as well as improving comfort for the most sensitive skin, with a lasting effect.
SYNTHETIC STARS
Sederma is part of Solus Biotech’s new owner Croda; its line-up comprises several synthetic origin peptides for skin and hair care.
These include Ceramide 2 (INCI: Ceramide NG), which is identical to the natural ceramides constituting 40-50% of the skin’s lipids. It exhibits capture and retention of water in the epidermis with twice daily application at 1% over eight days, as well as shorter term efficacy, decreasing TEWL by 22% just two hours after application.
Ceramide A2 (INCI: Aqua, glycerin, PEG-8, PEG-8/SMDI copolymer, palmitoyl myristyl serinate, sodium polyacrylate), meanwhile, is a chemical analogue of ceramide 2, which is also naturally found in hair.
It offers improvement in the volume, shine, resilience and vigour of hair by reinforcing the cell membrane complex of the hair, while restoring the ‘cement’ between the cuticle cells to strengthen and protect hair.
‘NOT ALL CERAMIDES ARE EQUAL’ Commenting on the popularity of ceramide NG, Sebastien Massard, Global Director of Strategic Marketing at Vantage, which both manufactures and distributes cosmetic ingredients, tells Cosmetics Business: “As ceramides have grown in popularity over the past few years, formulators have to understand that not all ceramides are created equal and that selecting the right ingredient for their need will be an important factor for their formulation’s success.
“Ceramide NG is one of the most common ceramides found in skin and hair; it plays a key role in ensuring the
20 April 2023
Ceramide A2 from Sederma offers improvement in the volume, shine, resilience and vigour of hair
right cohesion of the intracellular network and the structure of the barrier function of the skin.” Vantage offers Ceramide TIC-001 from
Takasago, which is ceramide NG produced via proprietary asymmetric synthesis.
According to Massard, this technology results in superior, high-purity ceramides that have an identical structure to the naturally-occurring ceramides found in skin and hair. Studies showed that Ceramide TIC- 001 significantly reduces TEWL and helps retain moisture content in the stratum corneum. When the skin was exposed to sodium dodecyl sulfate insult, Ceramide TIC-001 was shown to assist in restoring the skin barrier property by reducing the TEWL to normal levels.
When tested on menopausal and postmenopausal women, it improved barrier properties by reducing TEWL and irritation, both when applied to intact skin and after tape strip insult. Ceramide TIC-001 has also demonstrated benefits for hair strengthening and smoothing.
ALL ABOUT DELIVERY
Massard further notes the importance of delivery systems for ceramides. Vantage’s portfolio includes Ceraplex and Ceraplex Aqua from Sunjin, which has developed hectorite emulsifying technologies that improve the incorporation and delivery of crystalline active ingredients like ceramides in water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions. “These two delivery systems are based on ceramide NP and pseudo- ceramides, and allow formulators to fast-track their formula development process by facilitating the formulation
of these ingredients and reducing the risk for formula breakdown,” he explains.
Berg+Schmidt offers ceramide NP and AP (ceramide 3 and 6) in a high-tech encapsulation system for liposoluble active ingredients, called BergaCare SmartLipids Ceramide Light. “Ceramide NP and AP are
representatives for non-hydroxy fatty acid and alpha-hydroxy fatty acid bound ceramides, which occur naturally and in the highest concentrations in human skin,” explains Kristin Köhler, Division Manager of Berg+Schmidt Cosmetics. “Two further essential building blocks are needed besides the ceramides to ensure a healthy, functioning skin barrier – these are cholesterol and fatty acids.
“Cholesterol helps to stabilise the structure of the stratum corneum against changes in temperature or other environmental factors, while fatty acids are very prone to being removed from the skin by harsh cleansers, therefore it is important to replenish these lipids.” The lipid-based encapsulation system of BergaCare SmartLipids contains all three of these components: ceramides, phytosterols (a plant-based alternative to cholesterol) and fatty acids. As for formulating with ceramides, Isaacs recommends pairing them with ingredients that enhance their effectiveness.
“Ceramides are emollient molecules which lock in moisture by filling in the gaps between skin cells – we can maximise their effectiveness in a moisturiser by pairing them with humectants like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, which attract water, and occlusives like dimethicone, which help to lock in moisture on the surface of the skin”
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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