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MICROBIOME INGREDIENTS


Figure 1 Mechanism of action of the active ingredient


front of sun radiation, and in this case the ingredient increased the bacterial survival by sevenfold versus the irradiated untreated control. With M. luteus and B. pseudocatenolatum, more than the 100% of the CFU count was recovered compared with the irradiated untreated control.


Therefore the production of urolithins and melanin is decreased and the cutaneous synthesis of harmful metabolites (ROS, IL-6) gets higher, worsening photo-induced damage to the skin and the photoageing process. Vytrus is therefore presenting a new axis in cosmetics: the sun-microbiota- skin axis.


This biological axis allows the tackling of skin photoageing with a totally innovative approach: we can combat photoageing from excessive sun radiation exposure by photoprotecting our own skin microbiota.


PREVENTING PHOTOAGEING VIA MICROBIOTA


Photobiome is a 100% natural active ingredient from the stem cells of pomegranate (Punica granatum) and cotton from desertic and semi-arid regions of the Near and Middle East (Gossypium herbaceum).


Through a new technological platform called Phyto-Cell Fusion, Vytrus obtained a synergistic effect of prevention from photoageing by protecting the skin microbiota with a novel mechanism of action based on plant biotechnology (figure 1). This Phyto-Cell Fusion is complemented with two more plant-derived substances:


fructooligosaccharides and trehalose, sugars that help protect the cell membranes of the skin microbiome against adverse conditions like dehydration.


Fructoologisaccharides and trehalose also contribute to protecting the microbiota in front of sun radiation and,


cosmeticsbusiness.com April 2023 23


as a consequence, protect our skin against its harmful effects.


BIOLOGICAL ACTIVITY In vitro


Protection of skin microbiota against sun radiation


The bacterial population (CFU) of different microorganisms was quantified (S. epidermidis, M. luteus and B. pseudocatenolatum), each cultured in its specific culture medium in petri plates (serial dilutions followed by CFU count), in different conditions: non irradiated, and irradiating at 6J (broad spectrum: UV, visible and IR) in absence or presence of the active (at a 20% dosage, as the bacterial populations were very high, between 200,000 and 5,000,000 CFU).


The sun radiation reduced the bacterial populations, while the active could maintain higher rates of survival. S. epidermidis was the bacteria with the highest CFU count reduction in


In another assay, the effect of sun radiation on a co-culture of various microorganisms in plates was analysed. The microorganisms cultured were: S. epidermidis, Staphylococcus capitis, Streptococcus mitis, Corynebacterium tuberculostearicum, Corynebacterium simulans, Cutibacterium acnes, Malassezia pachydermatis. A total reduction of the microbiota was observed when irradiating 2.69J (UV) and applying a lotion without any SPF. But with the same irradiation, plus a lotion with a 3% of the active Photobiome, the co-culture could maintain 43% survival (figure 2).


Effect of the sun radiation and the active on the microbial metabolism Vytrus has carried out, for the first time, research to understand the effects of sun radiation on the microbial metabolism of skin microbiota and to study the effect of microbial secretome after sun exposure (photo-secretome, PS) on keratinocytes. When irradiating B. pseudocatenolatum (6J; UV, visible and IR), a reduction of 29% in the production of urolithins compared with the non-irradiated control was observed (quantification by UPLC in the bacterial supernatant, ie, the photo-secretome, PS). With the same irradiation in the presence of 10% of the active, though, the opposite effect was obtained: the synthesis of urolithins increased by


Figure 2 The effect of sun radiation on the skin microbiota


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