INGREDIENTS MICROBIOME
THE MICROBIOTA & PHOTOAGEING
Vytrus Biotech’s Ò Expósito, A Guirado, M Buchholz, A Gallego, M Mas, P Riera, D Luna, S Laplana, T Ruiz, S Ruiz and M Gibert discuss the sun-microbiota-skin axis and introduce Photobiome, a new ingredient that protects the cutaneous microbiota involved in fighting the signs of photoageing
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he study of the skin microbiota and its role in the health of our skin and hair system has taken centre stage in many of the cosmetic innovations of recent years. Vytrus Biotech started ten years ago to research in the field of skin microbiota and promulgated breakthroughs in cosmetic science. The first discovery was the possibility to modulate bacterial communication, respecting bacteria and inhibiting bacterial virulence to treat both acne-prone skin and bad body odour caused by bacteria through noni plant stem cells. Later, Vytrus worked with the microbiota-skin-brain axis, demonstrating with the cutaneous application of cannabis stem cells in a formulation the ability of microorganisms to influence the regulation of skin hormones, such as oxytocin, and their impact on emotional wellbeing. Recently, Vytrus focused on the role of the microbiota in the skin ageing process, developing a new plant biotechnology treatment that showed how we can achieve younger looking
22 April 2023
skin by rejuvenating our own skin microbiota.
The biotech company has now asked itself, what is the relationship between the skin microbiota and solar radiation? It is not a surprise that the sun care products market has grown greatly in recent decades and is expected to reach a valuation of US$25.3bn in 2033, up from $13.6bn in 2023, according to Future Market Insights. This optimistic forecast may encourage cosmetic companies to develop novelties that tackle the sun care market in ways never before imagined.
THE PHOTOBIOME FACTOR The skin microbiota plays a key role in skin homeostasis and the skin microbial ecosystem evolves with age. Furthermore, the microbiome is highly relevant regarding the regulation of skin functions when the skin is exposed to sun radiation. Various microorganisms of the skin microbiota have been identified for having especially important functions in protecting the skin exposed to UV radiation: Staphylococcus epidermidis,
Micrococcus luteus, Bifidobacterium spp. and Malassezia furfur. The metabolism of these microorganisms contributes to the protection of our skin against exposure to sun radiation.
These microorganisms are affected by sun radiation and if their environment is unsuitable, the loss of homeostasis will impact our skin, potentially leaving it defenceless in the face of the harmful effects of sun exposure.
The skin microbiota and its state in front of sun radiation, including the microbial metabolic behaviour, is called ‘the photobiome factor’.
This bacterial community can interact with sun radiation and produce specific metabolites – solar postbiotics (metabiotics) – that can be either beneficial or harmful for our skin cells. Among these metabiotics, microbial melanin and urolithins stand out. Both compounds photoprotect cutaneous microbiota and are part of the skin’s natural photo-defence system. If the conditions are not favourable – for example, excessive sun exposure – the population of these protecting microbes is dramatically reduced.
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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