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INGREDIENTS MICROBIOME


34% versus the non-irradiated control (figure 3).


In parallel, we observed that sun radiation caused some increase in the melanin production in M. furfur, but if in addition to sun radiation the M. furfur culture is treated with 20% of the ingredient, the increase is 18-fold higher (figure 3).


In a flow cytometry assay, cultures of S. epidermidis and M. luteus exposed to sun radiation produced more ROS than their non-irradiated controls. But under the same exposure in the presence of 20% of the active, a reduction of ROS production was observed, by 67% in S. epidermidis, and by 19% in M. luteus, compared with the irradiated controls which were not treated with the ingredient. Finally, we analysed the effect of the microbial photo-secretome (PS) on ROS and IL-6 production on keratinocytes in different conditions: effect of the treatment of keratinocytes with 1% of each PS; effect of irradiating the keratinocytes at the same time that they were treated with 1% of each PS; and effect of the active on keratinocytes irradiated and at the same time treated with 1% of each PS.


It was observed that Photobiome reduced by 260% the microbial oxidative stress on skin cells derived from solar over-exposure of the skin microbiota.


CLINICAL EVALUATION An in vivo test was performed with 20 volunteers with signs of photoageing and a summer tan, aged between 49 and 67.


It was a double-blind and placebo- controlled assay, hemi-facial application, with 1% dosage and two daily applications during 28 and 56 days. The test was carried out in Italy at the end of the summer season so the sun exposure and the damage on the volunteers’ skin were maximised. The variation in the Individual Tipology Angle (ITA) was measured in


Figure 3 Increase of urolithins and microbial melanin after applying Photobiome


order to study the skin pigmentation during the treatment, both in the face and in the dark hyperpigmented spots (CM-700D colorimeter from Konica Minolta).


The active increased ITA value up to 19%, modulating the melanin intensity and providing a lighter skin pigmentation along with an improvement of dark spots.


The skin firmness and elasticity were also assessed, where the active effectively reversed and repaired the damage to the viscoelastic properties of the skin by photoageing, showing a progressive restoring effect. The wrinkle depth in the crow’s feet and in the nasolabial regions (eye contour and bar code areas) were also reduced after the application of the active ingredient at 28 and 56 days (figure 4).


According to the results derived from this clinical assay, we can conclude that thanks to the active, the skin is efficiently protected and repaired from photoageing. The active preserves cell viability and balance, photoprotects both microbiota and skin cells from sun damage and, as a consequence, the skin becomes firmer and more elastic, more even in tone and texture, brighter and with a clear reduction of all types of premature wrinkles linked to photoageing.


The active ingredient Photobiome


Figure 4 Wrinkle reduction in bar code area with the active ingredient


protects the cutaneous microbiota involved in fighting the signs of photoageing.


At the same time, it stimulates the antioxidant and photoprotecting microbial metabolism under sun exposure. This allows a new approach in skin care and in the prevention of photoageing.


By taking care of the skin microbiota, we can recover a more smooth, luminous, firm and elastic skin, even during and after sun exposure. With this 100% natural active from pomegranate and extremophile cotton stem cells, we obtain a ‘well-ageing’ effect even under sun radiation exposure, through the positive modulation of the cutaneous microbiota involved in reinforcing the natural skin defence under sun exposure. Efficacy includes wrinkles reduction, an improvement in skin firmness and elasticity, and a reduction of post-sun exposure hyperpigmentation on skin


Authors


Ò Expósito, A Guirado, M Buchholz, A Gallego, M Mas, P Riera, D Luna, S Laplana, T Ruiz, S Ruiz & M Gibert, Vytrus Biotech www.vytrus.com


References Full references can be found at cosmeticsbusiness.com.


24 April 2023


cosmeticsbusiness.com


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