INGREDIENTS CERAMIDES
found in high concentrations within the cell membrane of cells with nuclei – and are one of the major lipids in the lipid bilayer.
“In the skin they create a barrier that helps prevent moisture loss, keeping skin hydrated, plump and supple, and they protect the skin from harmful external irritants, bacteria, weather and other environmental toxins in pollution.”
Daniel Isaacs, Director of Research at Medik8, says consumers should think of them as the “cement between your skin cells”.
He adds: “While we already have a reserve of ceramides within the skin, everyday life can deplete them and if our skin barrier doesn’t have these fatty lipids then hydration and moisture can leak out. This can result in dryness, sensitivity and a compromised skin barrier.
“By introducing products
containing ceramides you’ll reinforce your skin barrier, the result of which will be healthier, more hydrated and supple skin.”
As for origin, “we use lots of different sources of ceramides, natural and synthetic”, says Isaacs.
“One of our favourite ceramides, ceramide NP, is produced via vegetable- based fermentation, using biotechnology,” he adds, noting: “Typically, all sources of ceramides will produce the same or similar end result.” Ceramide NP, also known as ceramide 3, is what Medik8 uses in its new Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye formulations, according to Isaacs.
“The skin around the eye is thinner and more sensitive, with virtually no oil glands; it’s also drier and wrinkles are usually deepest in this area.
“Being skin identical, it [ceramide NP] easily penetrates the skin and works to nourish, comfort and support the delicate eye area, helping to offset any dryness and sensitivity that can occur with vitamin A use.”
Isaacs attributes the current popularity of ceramides to the fact they “truly work to enhance the look and feel of the skin, and they work quickly”. With this in mind, Cosmetics Business looks at ceramide ingredients on the market.
CERAMIDES FROM UPCYCLING Ichimaru Pharcos provides two upcycled ceramide ingredients: aquaCeramide-RC, derived from Japanese rice and Yuzu Ceramide B
18 April 2023
from Japanese yuzu. aquaCeramide-RC (INCI: Alpha-glucan, glucosyl ceramide) is extracted from the bran of rice seeds, a by-product of the rice oil industry. It promotes hyaluronic acid production in normal fibroblasts, improves skin barrier function and has moisturising and anti-wrinkle efficacy. In a test on ten volunteers aged between 20 and 50 (six male and four female), a lotion containing 0.1% aquaCeramide-RC and a lotion containing the control material dextrin were applied on the left and right sides of the face, twice a day for four weeks. Multilayer exfoliation, where corneocytes are peeled off, was scored and shown to be significantly improved in the area where aquaCeramide-RC was applied, indicating improved skin barrier function.
The average depth of lines at the corner of the eyes was significantly reduced compared with the control and pigment spots were reduced in areas where 0.1% aquaCeramide-RC was applied compared with before the test.
Yuzu Ceramide B (INCI: Butylene glycol, water, Citrus junos fruit extract) boasts moisturising and anti-wrinkle activity. Its efficacy on skin roughness was trialled by applying both Yuzu Ceramide B and control onto skin made rough with a surfactant (10% sodium lauryl sulfate). The transepidermal water loss (TEWL) value was lowered and the barrier function of the stratum corneum enhanced.
The ingredient likewise has a positive effect on hair; continuous treatment of human hair (soaked in 1% Yuzu Ceramide B for three minutes) that had been damaged by bleaching, showed the ingredient prevented hair cuticles from rising.
BOTANICAL OILS-BASED Solabia provides several active ingredients created through its Omega Ceramide Technology. This is a patented enzymatic synthesis process, which is solvent-free and uses botanical oils rich in unsaturated fatty acids. It results in the formation of a biomimetic structure of the ceramides in human skin. Derived from various botanical oils, the range comprises five ingredients. Omega 6 Ceramide Cotton, Maracuja, or Safflower increases cell cohesion by restructuring the skin barrier and reduces skin inflammation; Omega 6,3 Ceramide Raspberry restructures and
cosmeticsbusiness.com
New launches based on ceramides include N°1 De Chanel Rich Revitalizing Cream (below), which contains camellia ceramides to combats signs of ageing
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