TECHNIQUES


Tools - Button hat block - Utility tool pack sewing supplies - Steamer - Spray bottle for water - Round nosed pliers - Iron


1


Protecting the blocks As usual, cover blocks with cling film before you start as this helps protect the wood or buckram; it does not interfere with the drying process and will give a longer life to the block. In addition, a layer of foil will prevent the blocking net or sinamay sticking to the underlayers of cling film when stiffening. Take care to smooth out all foil creases fully.


Materials - ½ mtr sinamay (machine-woven) - ¼ mtr sinamay (hand-woven) - ¼ mtr straw fabric - Cotton-covered millinery wire, 1.00 mm and 0.8 mm - 15 mm wide crinoline - 2.5 mm crinoline tube, fabric colour and hair colour - Aluminium foil - Cling film - Coloured felt tip pens - Paper - Straw stiffener - Thread in matching colour


2


Measuring the block Measure the block from centre front to centre back (the longest length you will get on the block). Add approx. 1 cm from the hem underneath on both sides.


3


Using the measurement for cutting Using this measurement, cut two squares in sinamay, making sure you are cutting a square on the straight grain. Cut one square of the textured straw the same way.


4 Tip! for straw fabric


covering of button If you are using straw fabric as a covering: cut one layer of straw fabric and two layers of machine- woven sinamay.


Using the sinamay only, steam and block Steam the fabric,


5


dampening the sinamay as you progress. Make sure that you do not dampen too much as this will take out the already valuable stiffener that is on the fabric.


Positioning of the bias The bias of the weave must lay on centre front, centre back and over the ears. This will enable your sinamay to be eased over the parts of the block where it will not distort the shape when stretching.


6


Pulling the grain Pull the front and back bias points, then pin.


Repeat with the east and west points, then pin.


may 2024 | 63


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