INTERVIEW
Cornwell House on Clerkenwell Green, moving twice before settling right in the heart of Battersea in south-west London. She used to employ a lot of freelance talent, including people from abroad, but says that these days, things are rather different.
Tell us about your team?
Edwina Ibbotson: Since the pandemic and Brexit, my team has become much smaller than it used to be. Nowadays, I employ just one part-time freelance assistant milliner, and at present, five part-time trainee students who do between two to five days a week each. I used to employ a lot of millinery students from Europe as their courses are longer and more detailed, and therefore their skills tend to be a little more advanced. I won’t mention any names, but I’ve certainly had some very capable graduate milliners who’ve travelled to the UK for the summer season (and longer) from various European and Scandinavian countries – Austria, Poland, Finland and the
Where do you go to find freelancers nowadays?
I’d usually spread the word amongst other British Hat Guild members and put a note up on the British Hat Guild website. I’d also speak to tutors at fashion colleges that run millinery courses. Social media can be useful too. The work is often fairly seasonal (certainly as far as my occasionwear hats go), and the fee is normally agreed beforehand when we’re discussing the project.
What do you think makes a good freelancer?
The most important thing for me when it comes to finding a good freelancer is that their work is impeccable and that I can rely on them 100 per cent. Although I’ve found it’s almost impossible to find highly experienced freelancers these days, I’m still happy to take on less skilled people as long as they’re capable and are quick to pick up new things. I’m usually working alongside them in the studio, so I’m always there to help direct them. I also look for people who are team players, who’ll muck in and do whatever needs to be done on any given day.
It’s important, too, that colleagues respect
each other, as we’re a tight-knit group in a small workroom. I also need people who appreciate my work and my designs, otherwise it shows in the hats they make.
Do you feel that freelancing can be a career in itself?
Although I’ve never freelanced myself, I believe you could make a good career from freelancing, even nowadays. However, you’d need to have an advanced skill set and be able to work in many different millinery disciplines.
Czech Republic. However, Brexit has caused some difficulties on that front. Unfortunately, freelance milliners (professionals, students and trainees) can no longer come over from Europe without jumping through lots of hoops and filling in reams of paperwork. On top of that, the cost of living in Britain (especially London) is now so high that it’s practically impossible for people to live on what I can realistically pay per hour, without passing on an extra cost to clients. Hence at present, I would struggle to pay someone a proper milliner’s wage unless they’re exceptionally skilled and have years of experience. In the past, I’ve employed people who weren’t nearly as qualified as they said they were, and unfortunately on the odd occasion, I’ve ended up losing money on hats that they’ve worked on.
Does employing freelancers increase the risk of copying?
I’d say that most freelancers have their own collections too and there has to be a certain amount of trust both ways when it comes to design ideas and ownership.
What is the value for both parties when freelancing or gaining work experience?
Harvy: Especially valuable is someone who has previously worked with you and is familiar with your workroom, style, and the disciplines required. Having help during busy periods enables one to take on extra orders, thereby assisting with cash flow without depleting the bank balance during slower times. For freelancers, such opportunities likely keep their work interesting and engaging. Working in different workrooms or on various projects keeps freelancers learning, working efficiently, and facing challenges, albeit with fewer headaches than managing their own workrooms.
Edwina: Experiencing the operations of a traditional millinery workroom is a tremendous privilege. Gaining specialised knowledge and new skills from working within a small, well-formed team represents a significant step in any milliner's career.
More information
www.harvysantos.com
www.edwinaibbotson.co.uk
may 2024 | 57
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