INTERVIEW
operations to the new facility was a logistical and financial challenge, as both the old and the new factory had to remain working until all the workers and machinery were transferred to the new location. The new factory demanded adaptations, particularly in straw stiffening processes. Compliance with modern health and safety regulations meant installing air conditioning, air extractors, and special lighting in the stiffening room, alongside heated drying cabinets for the straw – a significant departure from the outdoor drying methods on lines on the parking space of the past. “In the end, all the
Accessories Four S/S collection 2008
challenges were overcome, and everything worked out well enough for another decade as we continued to push forward. However, production costs began to rise significantly due to the increase in overheads. Additionally, at the end of the 1990s, despite having a long-term lease, the council opted to sell the land where our company’s lease was located. This move, combined with a new landlord focused on maximising returns, led to a substantial hike in both rent and business rates. The final push for the company, however, was the decision by retailers to start sourcing their products offshore.”
Wholesaler
100 years after the English straw plaiting industry lost its business to low-cost countries in the Far East such as China, the same happened with the English hat- manufacturing industry. The shift towards outsourcing by
retailers, who increasingly sought their autumn/winter collections from Asia and Italy, especially regarding soft hats, gradually diminished the factory’s production to just eight months a year. Despite William’s efforts to maintain the production of occasionwear hats, the declining demand and the broader fashion industry’s move offshore meant that in 2000 the inevitable decision had to be made to close the factory. “At one point, the company employed over 90 workers, a number that dwindled to 40 or 50 by its closure. The impact of the shutdown was profound, not just on the local economy but also on the community of employees who had spent their careers with the company.” A news headline from October 2000 in the local
William at the Feltmakers competition, 2023
may 2024 | 21
newspaper, ‘Sad hatters aim to keep their heads above water’, captured the sentiment of the times well. In 2004 William decided to venture into uncharted waters by joining Denbies, an offshore enterprise born out of collaboration with a former sales director at Kangol and two Dutch former clients of Kangol and W. Wright & Son. This partnership was strategic, leveraging the extensive network and the collective experience of its founders to establish a new cornerstone in the hat industry, but this time by outsourcing the production. William’s foray into the international market stirred quite the conversation within the British hat industry. As the longstanding chairman of the British Hat Guild, his decision to pursue a new venture in China had necessitated his resignation from the role. However, he was not the
only one compelled to adapt to the evolving dynamics of the industry. “When I closed the doors of W. Wright & Son, other venerable firms like Albert’s, Bermona and Kangol also ceased operations around the same time, all for similar reasons. Hardly anybody could make their businesses work anymore.” At Denbies, William was back in his old role again, leading the design efforts and travelling around for inspiration and materials. Parallel to this venture in China, he also initiated Accessories
“I loved it all. It has always been, and still is, a great business to be in”
Four in Luton, an accessories company that offered a range of fashion items including hats, bags and belts. This endeavour was characterised by a holistic design philosophy, offering matching sets that appealed to clothing brands seeking cohesive accessory lines. The Accessories Four collections were also produced in the Far East.
Despite the rapid
success of Denbies and Accessories Four, William eventually had to decide to
step back from both businesses due to health concerns when he partially lost his sight. “If my eyes hadn’t failed me as they did, I would still have liked to be doing something in the hat industry. Designing, producing, meeting people – I loved it all. It has always been, and still is, a great business to be in.”
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