TECHNIQUES
HOW TO BLOCK FELT There are many ways of doing this:
Steaming Damp steaming with pressing cloths and irons
Soaking felt first, then pulling onto the block (best version for hand manipulation and better finish)
I am using the ‘slow dampening’ method. Reasons for using this technique: – The fibres will lay flat when blocked and not rise into bumps and lumps, which occurs because the fibres have not been wet enough. When steaming with a steamer, it does not penetrate the felt enough to produce this smooth look. Just steaming a felt is not sufficient enough to release the fibres.
– Soaking the felt completely in water maximises the shrinkage of your felt. For example with a 1920s-style felt cloche hat made from a felt cone, you may stretch the felt too far and create holes in the felt.
Knowing how to check your felts when you buy them is really important, as it saves time and money. See also the lightbox trick.
The lightbox trick If you go to the Instagram account of The Hat Magazine, Denise will demonstrate how to find patches in a felt hood linked to this article.
Slow dampening to release the fibres prepared the day before. Used with a hot iron and cloth to block or hand manipulate
1. Take the felt and turn the hood inside out (this is so all the moisture can be where you need it, which is on the inside of the felt).
2. Spray the felt all over with a dose of water that covers the felt but does not penetrate the fibres on the right side of the felt.
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Preparations for using the felt: soaking the felt (the most important step for felt blocking) When working with felt, you need to take the fibres back to their original state when the cone or capeline was made. A simple way a supplier once told me is to do as follows:
68 | the hat magazine #95
3. Place the felt into a plastic bag and seal the plastic bag so there is air in the bag but none of this air can get out. I use a bag clip above a knot just to make sure it is airtight.
4. Store in a warm place for at least 4–6 hours. This method loosens all the fibres and makes the felt so soft and malleable that it gives in when you stretch it.
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5. Don’t forget to turn the hood the right way out when blocking. This method works well for all felts, especially hard or thicker, more durable felts.
The process for manipulating felt When pressing the felt you need to turn your iron on to the cotton or linen setting. Take your felt out of the plastic bag and place on an ironing board or pressing mat (as preferred).
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