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WASHINGTONIAN’S TOP 100


setting, tented in colorful fabric and dressed with larger-than-life-size photographs of Indian ingredients. // 100-B Gibbs St., Rockville; 301-610-0303; www. spicexing.com. Open: lunch and dinner daily. All major credit cards. Entree prices: lunch and dinner $10.95 to $16.95, weekday lunch buffet $8.95, weekend lunch buffet $10.95. Sound check: 65 decibels.


★★★ SUSHI TARO’S OMAKASE SUSHI COUNTER The difference between eating in the handsome main dining room and at the intime, six-seat


chef ’s counter, hidden in the back of this Dupont Circle Japanese restaurant, comes down to a lot of money and rare detail. Put yourself in the hands of chef- owner Nobu Yamazaki for an evening, and not only is the sake poured into cups of your own choosing and the wasabi grated before your eyes, but the lessons flow nonstop: Whole fried river trout is pleasantly bitter because the tiny fish feeds on algae, the master tells us. The fine noodles in a glass bowl of eel, smoked eggplant and clear broth are tinted pale green with tea, he offers. The lid of what looks like a brick is lifted to reveal matchsticks made from dried sea cucumber roe (“Seafood jerky!” cries my pal) and a dip of squid ink, sake and chili pepper. Intriguing. Less luscious: the one-note edamame soup with fried okra and a sardine cake. There are two house-made soy sauces; they come with a small brush for dabbing the sushi, some of the raw fish for which is bought at Tokyo’s famed Isukiji market. “I feel like I’ve been to Japan,” my companion whispers as we reluctantly depart one of the most enchanting meals in the city that doesn’t require a passport. Having just dined on some of the most exquisite food in Washington — and having tucked $400 into the bill holder


for the privilege — I can only nod and sigh. // 1503 17th St. NW; 202-462- 8999; www.sushitaro.com. Open: dinner Monday through Saturday. All major credit cards. Prices: $120 to $160. Sound check: 69 decibels.


★★ TABARD INN The Tabard Inn and I go back decades, but I still feel a flutter in my chest whenever I see its menu. So many enticements! I want to order one of each when the choices include a fat soft-shell crab garnished with juicy grapefruit and napped with a passion-fruit- accented brown butter sauce; seared scallops accompanied by ricotta-filled squash blossoms and a nest of squid- ink pasta jazzed up with preserved lemon; and a mixed grill that lets me savor plump quail, juicy duck sausages and roseate lamb chops, along with haricots verts cooked just right. The nut-crusted halibut might be dry, but you have to applaud the peach relish and plantain chips the fish shows up with. Named after the lodging place in Chaucer’s “Canterbury Tales,” the business dates to 1922, but the kitchen, under executive chef Paul Pelt, is very much of the moment. Packaged in a low ceiling and black-and-while tile floor, the main dining room proves cramped and clattery. I prefer the cozier space upstairs or, better yet, the enclosed garden if the weather allows. The inn’s address, on a quiet, tree-lined street near Dupont Circle, gives it the air of a well-kept secret. The occupied couches in the firelit lounge tell you otherwise: You’d better have a reservation. // 1739 N St. NW; 202-331-8528; www. tabardinn.com Open: breakfast daily, lunch Monday through Friday, dinner daily, weekend brunch. All major credit cards. Entree prices: breakfast $2 to $11, lunch $11 to $17, dinner $23 to $33, brunch $11 to $17. Sound check: 76 decibels.


★★ TAQUERIA LA PLACITA Your senses let you know that you’re in the right place for Mexican. Look around the Hyattsville dining room, dressed with colorful murals; nearly every seat is occupied by someone who appears to have been weaned on tacos.


14 Years in a row


SPECTACULAR SEAFOOD


Creole and Cajun Specialties


3804 Mt. Vernon Avenue Alexandria, VA


703-684-6010 www.rtsrestaurant.net


French Restaurant & Wine Lounge in Friendship Heights


www.lechatnoirrestaurant.com


4907 Wisconsin Avenue, NW 202.244.2044


Restaurant & Crab House 3030 Old Riva RoadAnnapolis, MD 21140410-956-2784


Established 1958 www.mikescr abhouse .com


6 King St., Alexandria 703.548.0600


Authentic Thai Cuisine www.maithai.us


1200 19th St. NW 202.452.6870


THAI COUNTRY COMFORT FOOD Try Our Weekend Thai Dim Sum Menu 11am-3:00pm


5892 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA 22041 (703)671-4222


www.duangrats.com


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