IN SEASON
Marvellous mushrooms
Mushrooms are one of those controversial ingredients that are loved by some, detested by others. During the autumn months, wild mushrooms are at their peak – although you’ll find cultivated varieties available all year round. If you’re buying cultivated mushrooms, choose carefully as they can spoil quickly and lose their flavour: be sure to avoid mushrooms that look slimy or sweaty, that are bruised, that have broken caps or that have dry patches. If you’re picking your own, be sure you’re confident in identifying it correctly – or head out on
one of the many expert-led foraging trips available across the South West. Roger White of Somerset Local Food Direct knows his mushrooms – we asked him to tell us more about these fantastic seasonal ingredients.
Mushrooms must be one of the strangest foods we eat. Tey grow in the dark, mysteriously crop up overnight and have no roots or seeds. As a fungus they produce spores which, for cultivation purposes, are incorporated into the growing compost where they form a network of fine white filaments from which the mushrooms grow, if the temperature and humidity are right. White and brown mushrooms are
the most popular, though the brown or 'chestnut' has a better flavour. Te terms 'button', 'closed cup', 'open cup', 'flats' and 'portobello' just refer to the size and stage in its growth at which it is harvested. Tey are used in a wide variety of dishes such as risottos, stir-fries and omelettes. But
they are delicious on their own and eaten raw in a salad or fried in a little salted butter with or without garlic according to your taste. Settle the whole lot on to a slice of granary toast and that's all you need for a good supper. Tey contain useful
amounts of protein, fibre and vitamins but virtually no fat, cholesterol, carbs or sugars, so they’re excellent for the calorie
conscious if you avoid putting them in the frying pan. Cultivated mushrooms are best stored
in a paper bag in the fridge. Chestnut mushrooms keep longer than the white ones at around 10 days. Tere is no need to peel or wash them, just knock off any bits of stray compost and trim the stalks with a knife.
STUFFED SADDLE OF LAMB WITH SPINACH AND MUSHROOMS
A boned, stuffed and rolled joint of meat always looks impressive when carved – try this version, combining mushrooms, garlic, plenty of herbs and spinach.
SERVES 8
1.3kg lean boned saddle of lamb, trimmed 2 tbsp olive oil 1 small red onion or 3 shallots, peeled and finely chopped 100g mixed or wild mushrooms, cleaned and roughly sliced 25g butter
250g spinach leaves, picked and rinsed
Large pinch of ground nutmeg Salt and freshly milled black pepper 1-2 large sprigs fresh rosemary leaves 2-3tbsp full fat garlic and herb flavoured soft cheese 10 fat garlic cloves, skin on and bruised 6 large sage leaves
1 Preheat the oven to 190C / Gas 5.
Heat half the oil in a large pan and cook the onion and the mushrooms for 4-5 minutes over a moderate heat. Remove from the pan, drain and set aside to cool.
2 Return the pan to the heat and melt the butter. Add the spinach and wilt quickly for 1 minute over a moderate heat, stirring occasionally. Season with the nutmeg, drain and set aside to cool.
3 Place the saddle of lamb on a chopping
board, skin side down, season on both sides, then place fat side down. Sprinkle over the rosemary leaves.
4 In a large bowl, mix together the spinach, mushroom mixture and soft cheese. Season, if required.
5 Spread over the surface of the saddle, roll up and tie with butcher's string to secure.
Place on a metal rack in a non-stick roasting tin, drizzle with the remaining olive oil, add the garlic cloves and sage leaves to the base of the roasting tin and roast for 1.5-2 hours, basting occasionally with any lamb juices.
6 Remove from the oven and allow to rest for 15-20 minutes before carving.
7 Serve the lamb with roasted red onions and olive oil mash.
www.simplybeefandlamb.co.uk
28 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER
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