PEER-REVIEW | DERMATOLOGY | a seven component anti-
inflammatory mix did significantly
improve
photoprotection beyond the sunscreen ingredients themselves. This study suggests that selecting a sunscreen with multiple anti- inflammatory, not just a few antioxidant ingredients, would provide enhanced sunscreen photoprotection1
. This result
would be expected since antioxidants affect only two of the seven inflammatory pathways. The distinction between anti-
inflammatory and antioxidant ingredients are important to understand due to all seven inflammatory pathways being modulated by the former. All
This study suggests
that selecting a sunscreen with multiple anti-inflammatory, not just a few antioxidant, ingredients would provide enhanced sunscreen photoprotection.
antioxidants have at least a mild anti-inflammatory effect, but not all anti-inflammatories function via antioxidant effect. For example, aspirin, naprosyn and ibuprofen have no antioxidant effects, but are potent anti-inflammatories12
.
Sunscreen efficacy Optimizing sunscreen efficacy can be a challenge if inadequate amounts of product are applied. The SPF value correlates with thickness of application in an exponential relationship. Formal SPF and UVA testing methods used to claim a product as a sunscreen requires a 20-patient clinical trial in which a specific thickness of the product is applied. However, the average American only applies 25–40% of the recommended dose or thickness of application of the sunscreen product as recommended by the FDA. Tested SPF of 33 applied in a real-world dose or thickness of application on an average American provides a true protection factor of only 4.5. To maximize photoprotection one should apply a generous amount of sunscreen product in two applications about 30 minutes apart to cool, dry skin that will be exposed to the environment. The second application should be more than 30 minutes before sun, heat, and water exposure3
40 ❚ . March 2015 |
prime-journal.com
Conclusion In conclusion, to improve
prevention of skin cancer, smart UVL protective products that address each of the anomalies induced by solar radiation should
include:
Ingredients to optimize SCPB structure and function Anti-inflammatory ingredients Adequate doses of the
photoprotective ingredients to optimally bind to intact stratum corneum and stratum granulosum by applying a thick enough layer. As a corollary, a barrier
repairing, anti-inflammatory smart sunscreen product will also be expected to maximize therapy and prevent exacerbations of the twelve cutaneous diseases and disorders previously listed in Table 1. Smart
sun protective products are expected to be a valuable addition to a skin care practitioner’s therapeutic armamentarium. As scientific advances in medicine and physiology occur, strategies to prevent and treat diseases of our time including cancer must be adjusted to maximize quality of life of our patients, our clients and our loved ones.
Declaration of interest Carl R. Thornfeldt is the inventor of
Epionce and CEO of Episciences, Inc., Boise, Idaho
Table 3 Herbal
anti-inflammatories: uncommon ones demonstrated in
human clinical trials Date
Rosa canina
Other fractions of flax White water lily Licorice
Turmerone Shiitake
Meadowfoam
Apple, mallow, wheat germ, lemon balm, shiitake, sweet orange, onion, speedwell, apricot,
coconut, cucumber Charantais melon White willow bark Raspberry Achiote Coconut
Key points
Repairing and optimizing the stratum corneum permeability barrier is critical for photoprotection and allowing maximum function of sunscreen ingredients
Using anti-inflammatory References
1. Wang S, Osterwalder U, Jung K. Sunscreens with added antioxidants do not improve photoprotection. J Am Acad Dermatol 2011; 65(3): 525-530
2. Lavker R, Kligman A. Chronic inflammation produces signs of skin aging. J Invest Dermatol 1988; 90(3): 325-330
3. Thornfeldt C, Bourne K. The New Ideal In Skin Health. Carol Stream, IL: Allured Books; 2010
4. Thornfeldt C. Herbs with documented efficacy to be presented at the 73rd American Academy of Dermatology, San Francisco, CA, March 22, 2015
5. Elias P, et al. Multiple chronic inflammatory diseases are characterized by disrupted barrier. Arch Dermatol 2001; 137 (8): 60-62.
6. Thornfeldt C. Chronic inflammation is the etiology of extrinsic aging. J Invest Dermatol 2008; 7(1):78-82
7. Elias P, Thornfeldt C. Unpublished bench research
8. Amato DA, Thornfeldt CR. Healing strategies to reduce complications and improve clinical outcomes of aesthetic procedures, pending submission.
9. Thornfeldt C. Cosmeceutical containing novel botanical blend reduces UV induced erythema. Cosmet. Dermatol 2004; 17(10): 663-667
10. Placzek M, Gaube S, Kerkmann U, et al. UVB induced DNA damage is modified by ascorbic acid and alpha tocopherol. J Invest Dermatol 2005; 124(2): 304-307
11. Murray J, Pinnell S, Burch JA, Streilein RD, Iannacchione MA, Hall RP. Topical antioxidants reduce UV erythema. J Am Acad Dermatol 2008; 59(3): 415-425
12. Fuller BB. Antioxidants and anti-inflammatories. In: Draelos ZD, ed. Cosmetic Dermatology. Chichester, UK: Wiley-Blackwell; 2010:281-291
ingredients to modulate six inflammation cascades is intuitively superior to antioxidants which modulate two inflammation cascades
Application of an
adequate dose or thickness of the photoprotective product and the timing of application is essential to maximize protection
A primary solution to
the photosensitive cutaneous diseases including photoageing is the use of smart photoprotective products
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