| COSMECEUTICALS | PEER-REVIEW extrinsic signs of ageing51 . A solid


rationale backed up by in vitro data or successful animal model research does not translate however into in vivo efficacy of the final formulation. Active ingredients must be physically, chemically, and


Sage,


witch hazel, carotenoids, lycopene, and grape seed extracts have shown protection against erythema.


48. Sarkar R, Arora P, Garg KV. Cosmeceuticals for Hyperpigmentation: What is Available? J Cutan Aesthet Surg 2013; 6(1): 4-11


49. Bissett DL, Farmer T, McPhail S, et al. Genomic expression changes induced by topical N-acetyl glucosamine in skin equivalent cultures in vitro. J Cosmet Dermatol 2007; 6(4): 232-8


50. Reuter J, Merfort I, Schempp CM. Botanicals in dermatology: an evidence-based review. Am J Clin Dermatol 2010; 11(4): 247-67


51. Robinson DM, Aasi SZ. Cosmetic concerns and management strategies to combat aging. Maturitas 2011; 70(3): 256-60


52. Atiyeh BS, Ibrahim AE, Saad DA. Stem cell facelift: between reality and fiction. Aesthet Surg J 2013; 33(3): 334-8


53. Wisniewski JD, Ellis DL, Lupo MP. Facial rejuvenation: combining cosmeceuticals with cosmetic procedures. Cutis 2014; 94(3): 122-6


54. Davis EC, Callender VD. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation: a review of the epidemiology, clinical features, and treatment options in skin of color. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol 2010; 3(7): 20-31


55. Orringer JS, Kang S, Johnson TM, et al. Tretinoin treatment before carbon-dioxide laser resurfacing: a clinical and biochemical analysis. J Am Acad Dermatol 2004; 51(6): 940-6


56. Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF. Reversal of photodamage with topical growth factors: a pilot study. J Cosmet Laser Ther 2003; 5(1): 25-34


57. Mehta RC, Smith SR, Grove GL, et al. Reduction in facial photodamage by a topical growth factor product. J Drugs


photostable in the commercial formulation, and they must be able to penetrate the stratum corneum to reach their target in sufficient concentrations. Furthermore, even when designing a high- powered clinical trial, it may not be feasible to extrapolate statistically significant data between the treatment and control groups since anything applied to the skin will have an effect. Moreover, for modalities such as stem cell injection, mere volume- filling principles may be responsible for the improvement of facial rhytides rather than any specific effect52


anti-ageing . stand-alone


Apart from being agents,


cosmeceutical therapies can also be used in adjuvant to chemical peels, lasers, and


Declaration of interest None


injectables, making antiageing regimens less painful and requiring less postprocedural healing time53


.


Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) can be decreased with some of the cosmeceuticals described, such as ascorbic acid54


. Topical retinoids used prior to


ablative laser treatments can aid re-epithelialization and reduce erythema55


. Topical application of peptides can


be used as an adjunct to intramuscular botulinum neurotoxin, to reduce the number of injections needed53


.


Conclusions Regardless of all the caveats, the study of active ingredients used in cosmeceutical agents remains fruitful and compelling. Ongoing research can advance the general understanding of dermal signalling mechanisms and provide deeper insights in the mechanism of action of existing cosmetic procedures, such as soft tissue fillers. Cosmeceutical studies can ameliorate the field by not only providing proof of clinical efficacy but by using gene, protein, and histologic evidence to ascertain their effectiveness. Consumers can have access to a better variety of non-invasive, cost, and time-effective options tailored to their specific skin needs and conditions, and clinicians can access comprehensive information to counsel and treat their patients accordingly.


Key points The growing


cosmeceuticals industry requires evidence-based medicine to substantiate claims made by companies


Innovations in this field


will most likely alter the course of cosmetic medicine in years to come with breakthroughs made annually


This review includes the main mechanism of action of most cosmeceuticals and how they can be used for treatment of various dermatologic conditions


Dermatol 2008; 7(9): 864-71


58. Hussain M, Phelps R, Goldberg DJ. Clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural changes after use of human growth factor and cytokine skin cream for the treatment of skin rejuvenation. J Cosmet Laser Ther 2008; 10(2): 104-9


59. Fabi SG, Cohen JL, Peterson JD, Kiripolsky MG, Goldman MP. The effects of filtrate of the secretion of the Cryptomphalus aspersa on photoaged skin. J Drugs Dermatol 2013; 12(4): 453-7


60. Pickart L, Vasquez-Soltero JM, Margolina A. The human tripeptide GHK-Cu in prevention of oxidative stress and degenerative conditions of aging: implications for cognitive health. Oxid Med Cell Longev 2012; 2012: 324832


61. 61.


Schumacher WE, et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol 2007; 143(5): 606-12


62. Lee MS, Lee KH, Sin HS, Um SJ, Kim JW, Koh BK. A newly synthesized photostable retinol derivative (retinyl N-formyl aspartamate) for photodamaged skin: profilometric evaluation of 24-week study. J Am Acad Dermatol 2006; 55(2): 220-4


63. Creidi P, Vienne MP, Ochonisky S, et al. Profilometric evaluation of photodamage after topical retinaldehyde and retinoic acid treatment. J Am Acad Dermatol 1998; 39(6): 960-5


64. Moraes AB, Haidar MA, Soares Júnior JM, et al. The effects of topical isoflavones on postmenopausal skin: double-blind and randomized clinical trial of efficacy. Eur J Obstet Gynecol Reprod Biol 2009; 146(2): 188-92


65. Marini A, Grether-Beck S, Jaenicke T, Kafi R, Kwak HS,


et al. Pycnogenol(R) effects on skin elasticity and hydration coincide with increased gene expressions of collagen type I and hyaluronic acid synthase in women. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2012; 25(2): 86-92


66. Szczurko O, Shear N, Taddio A, Boon H, et al., Ginkgo biloba for the treatment of vitilgo vulgaris: an open label pilot clinical trial. BMC Complement Altern Med 2011; 11: 21


67. Chiu AE, Chan JL, Kern DG, Kohler S, Rehmus WE, Kimball AB. Double-blinded, placebo-controlled trial of green tea extracts in the clinical and histologic appearance of photoaging skin. Dermatol Surg 2005; 31(7 Pt 2): 855-60; discussion 860


68. Kasai K, Yoshimura M, Koga T, Arii M, Kawasaki S. Effects of oral administration of ellagic acid-rich pomegranate extract on ultraviolet-induced pigmentation in the human skin. J Nutr Sci Vitaminol (Tokyo) 2006; 52(5): 383-8


69. Buonocore D, Lazzeretti A, Tocabens P, et al. Resveratrol-procyanidin blend: nutraceutical and antiaging efficacy evaluated in a placebocontrolled, double-blind study. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol 2012; 5: 159-65


70. Espinal-Perez LE, Moncada B, Castanedo-Cazares JP. A double-blind randomized trial of 5% ascorbic acid vs. 4% hydroquinone in melasma. Int J Dermatol 2004; 43(8): 604-7


71. Draelos ZD, Yatskayer M, Bhushan P, Pillai S, Oresajo C. Evaluation of a kojic acid, emblica extract, and glycolic acid formulation compared with hydroquinone 4% for skin lightening. Cutis 2010; 86(3): 153-8


72. Yamakoshi J, Sano A, Tokutake S, et al.


Oral intake of proanthocyanidin-rich extract from grape seeds improves chloasma. Phytother Res 2004; 18(11): 895-9


73. Tadokoro T, Bonté F, Archambault JC, et al. Whitening efficacy of plant extracts including orchid extracts on Japanese female skin with melasma and lentigo senilis. J Dermatol 2010; 37(6): 522-30


74. Wallo W, Nebus J, Leyden JJ. Efficacy of a soy moisturizer in photoaging: a double-blind, vehicle-controlled, 12-week study. J Drugs Dermatol 2007; 6(9): 917-22


75. Amer M, Metwalli M. Topical liquiritin improves melasma. Int J Dermatol 2000; 39(4): 299-301


76. Kimball AB, Kaczvinsky JR, Li J, et al. Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation after use of moisturizers with a combination of topical niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine: results of a randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial. Br J Dermatol 2010; 162(2): 435-41


77. Thornfeldt C, Rizer RL, Trookman NS. Blockade of melanin synthesis, activation and distribution pathway by a nonprescription natural regimen is equally effective to a multiple prescription-based therapeutic regimen. J Drugs Dermatol 2013; 12(12): 1449-54


78. Gonzalez S, Pathak MA, Cuevas J, Villarrubia VG, Fitzpatrick TB. Topical or oral administration with an extract of Polypodium leucotomos prevents acute sunburn and psoralen-induced phototoxic reactions as well as depletion of Langerhans cells in human skin. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed 1997; 13(1-2): 50-60


79. Middelkamp-Hup MA, Pathak MA, Parrado C, et al. Orally administered


Polypodium leucotomos extract decreases psoralen-UVA-induced phototoxicity, pigmentation, and damage of human skin. J Am Acad Dermatol 2004; 50(1): 41-9


80. Middelkamp-Hup MA, Pathak MA, Parrado C, et al. Oral Polypodium leucotomos extract decreases ultraviolet-induced damage of human skin. J Am Acad Dermatol 2004; 51(6): 910-8


81. Reuter J, Jocher A, Hornstein S, Mönting JS, Schempp CM. Sage extract rich in phenolic diterpenes inhibits ultraviolet-induced erythema in vivo. Planta Med 2007; 73(11): 1190-1


82. Hughes-Formella BJ, Filbry A, Gassmueller J, Rippke F. Anti- inflammatory efficacy of topical preparations with 10% hamamelis distillate in a UV erythema test. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol 2002; 15(2): 125-32


83. Heinrich U, Gärtner C, Wiebusch M, et al. Supplementation with beta-carotene or a similar amount of mixed carotenoids protects humans from UV-induced erythema. J Nutr 2003; 133(1): 98-101


84. Aust O, Stahl W, Sies H, et al. Supplementation with tomato-based products increases lycopene, phytofluene, and phytoene levels in human serum and protects against UV-light-induced erythema. Int J Vitam Nutr Res 2005; 75(1): 54-60


85. Ferzil G, Patel M, Phrsai N, Brody N. Reduction of facial redness with resveratrol added to topical product containing green tea polyphenols and caffeine. J Drugs Dermatol 2013; 12(7): 770-4


prime-journal.com | March 2015 ❚


23


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96