| COSMECEUTICALS | PEER-REVIEW
KTTKS was well tolerated by the skin and provided significant improvement in wrinkle reduction, and fine lines through both quantitative technical and expert grader image analysis14
. Another signal peptide, melanostatin, studied in vitro
but included in cosmeceuticals, is a synthesized peptide used to rid the skin of abnormal pigmentation by inhibiting the synthesis of melanin20
. Tripeptide-10
citrulline (T10-C), a decorin-like molecule, regulates the interaction of collagen molecules in vitro to establish a uniform tissue shape, thus increasing the quality rather than quantity of collagen21
.
Enzyme-inhibiting peptides Enzyme-modulating peptides directly or indirectly inhibit the function of a key enzyme in some metabolic processes of skin ageing. They are commonly extracted from botanical sources rather than engineered. For example, the extraction of certain peptides from rice proteins have shown an inhibitory effect on collagen degradation22
.
Neurotransmitter peptides Neurotransmitter peptides are similar to botulinum toxin in that they both selectively modulate synaptosome- associated proteins of 25 KDa, more commonly known as SNAP-25. Botulinum toxin A proteolytically degrades SNAP-25; whereas acetyl hexapeptide-3, commercially known as Argireline (Centerchem, Norwalk, CT, USA), inhibits its biologic function. Application of an emulsion containing 10% of the hexapeptide on healthy women volunteers reduced wrinkle depth up to 30% after 30 days treatment23
. A randomised, placebo-controlled
study of 60 volunteers applying acetyl hexapeptide-3 to their periorbital wrinkles twice daily for 4 weeks showed total anti-wrinkle efficacy in the acetyl hexapeptide-3 group of 48.9%, compared with 0% in the placebo group24
.
A second commercialised neurotransmitter peptide, pentapeptide-3, commercially known as VIALOX (Centerchem, Norwalk, CT, USA), is a competitive antagonist at the acetylcholine receptor. In a clinical study conducted by PentaPharm, women aged 30–60 years applied the compound twice daily to one half of the face for 28 days. Results demonstrated a subjective improvement in periorbital rhytides by almost 50%18
.
Stem cells Insights in stem cell biology and the relevant advances in harvesting and transplanting stem cells has led to expanding their clinical application in the field of skin rejuvenation. Cosmeceuticals have exploited the anti- ageing potential of stem cells by including the extracts in product emulsions touted as a ‘miracle’ active ingredient, but the marketing claims often push the limits of available science. Cutaneous stem cells, residing in the basal layer of the
epidermis, replenish skin during normal functions as well as through the course of wound repair25
. Through
ageing and with exposure to environmental insults, the stem cell’s ability to replicate and repair skin is reduced,
thus supplementing the skin with additional stem cells could be a promising pathway. The proposed mechanism of action is based on the premise that the stem cells secrete growth factors that can affect the surrounding tissue, inducing fibroblast activation and collagen synthesis26
.
. Sources of stem cells can be either human or
plant-based, although the former faces numerous ethical issues making the production and distribution of products difficult27
Through ageing and with exposure to environmental insults, the stem cell’s ability to replicate and repair skin is
reduced, thus supplementing the skin with additional stem cells could be a promising pathway.
Adipose tissue is an abundant source of mesenchymal
stem cells (MSC), which secrete collagen, fibronectin, VEGF, and other growth factors28
. Conditioned media
from these cells has been shown to have anti-ageing benefits when applied topically. Specifically, in a clinical case report, autologous, purified lipoaspirate was injected directly into the photoaged periorbital dermis of a patient yielding subjective improvement in the treated skin as well as an increase in dermal thickness as measured by ultrasonography at 2 month follow-up29
. The same group also reported data from animal and in vitro models of Table 4 Overview of clinical studies with stem cells
Lipoaspirate 1 Lipoaspirate 15
+Hyaluronic acid vs single
stem cell extract
– Periorbital – Deep
treatments Swiss apple 20 – Wrinkle
Depths
nasolabial folds
Injection 2 months Subjective 29/LOE-IV Injection 2 months Decreased 33/LOE-III
deep facial folds
Injection 4 weeks 15% 38/LOE-III
prime-journal.com | March 2015 ❚
17
Stem cells
Patients Placebo controlled
Study endpoints
Route of administration
Treatment Results/ improvement
Reference/ level of evidence
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