PEER-REVIEW | COSMECEUTICALS | models36,37 Table 5 Overview of clinical studies with antioxidants . . A trial with 20 subjects testing a cream


containing Swiss apple stem cell extract was found to reduce wrinkle depth by 8% after 2 weeks and 15% after 4 weeks38


Although stem cells show promise and aspiration to


0.4% Retinol 36 + Ageing Retinyl


N-formyl aspartamate


retinoic acid b-Estradiol


0.05% Ret- inaldehyde Vs 0.05%


vs 4% genistein Ginkgo Topical 24 weeks Significant 26 + Photodamage Topical 24 weeks Significant


61/LOE-II 62/LOE-II


125 + Photodamage Topical 18 weeks Significant/ 63/LOE-I low side- effects


36 –


Epidermal thickness


Pycnogenol 20 – Skin texture 12


– Vitiligo


10% Green tea cream


+300mg green tea


Resveratrol


Topical 24 weeks 75% vs 20% 64/LOE-III increase of collagen


Oral Oral


12 weeks Increased elasticity


12 weeks Significant


40 + Photoageing Topical/ 8 weeks Oral


Pomegranate 13 extracts


50 + Ageing


+ Photoageing Oral Oral


65/LOE-II 66/LOE-III


Significant in 67/LOE-II skin elasticity


4 weeks Photo- 8 weeks


protection Significant


anti-ageing effect


the whitening effects of adipose-derived stem cells extracts via downregulation of tyrosinase30


effects induced by UV-B by stimulation of fibroblasts and collagen production31


and antioxidant benefits for control


and prevention of skin damage from free radicals in various skin conditions32


. No major adverse effects have . Combined injection of stem


cells and hyaluronic acid into deep facial folds of 15 female volunteers also proved beneficial in improving rhytides and skin tone33


been noted by analyzing data derived from 174 published cases of patients treated with adipose-derived stem cells and 121 patients enrolled in clinical trials in the plastic surgery literature34


. Plant stem cells have also been


embraced as a viable and ethical option for formulating anti-ageing skin cosmeceuticals. Despite the broad potential of many botanical species the bulk of research has focused around stem cells of the lilac, the grape, and the Swiss apple plant.


In vitro


studies have shown that lilac stem cell extracts have wound repair and anti-inflammatory properties35 extracts,


, anti-wrinkle


68/LOE-III 69/LOE-II


join the cosmeceutical armamentarium, only sparse low-level clinical evidence is available to substantiate their efficacy. Considerable rigorous studies are required to justify their clinical utility in anti-ageing treatment (Table 5).


Antioxidants One of the most popular categories of cosmeceutical ingredients are antioxidants, as a major cause of ageing is oxidation of skin structures from reactive oxygen species. The primary source of cosmeceutical antioxidant ingredients is botanic extracts39


. Some antioxidants,


mentioned in a separate section, have additional functions such as reduction of pigment and erythema (ascorbic acid, vitamin E, polypodium leucotomos). Carotenoids, flavonoids, and polyphenols are the major classes of antioxidants used by the cosmeceutical industry (Table 5).


Carotenoids Derivatives of Vitamin A are substances with a vital, established antioxidant role when ingested. Prescription tretinoid, the oxidized biologically active form of Vitamin A has had a well-documented role in anti-ageing and proven to repair photodamaged skin40


. However, due to its


irritancy, the natural forms of Vitamin A, retinol and retinaldehyde, have been exploited by cosmeceutical formulations to provide a less potent but safer alternative.


Flavonoids Flavonoids are yellow compounds found in plants that possess a variety of biologic functions. The most common flavonoids incorporated in cosmeceuticals are genistein contained in soybeans, pycnogenol, and ginkgo39


. Polyphenols Green tea, pomegranate fruit, and grape seeds are


sources of polyphenols with high anti-oxidant activity. Although more commonly ingested rather than applied topically, clinical studies have indicated their beneficial potential for the skin41


.


Pigment-reducing agents Cosmeceutical agents that selectively target hyperplastic melanocytes and inhibit key regulatory steps in melanin synthesis have been developed to treat various skin-


. Grape stem cell containing


proanthocyanidins, are anti- inflammatory, prevent skin ageing and inhibit the action of radical oxygen species in both in vitro and in vivo


18 ❚ March 2015 | prime-journal.com Green tea, pomegranate


fruit, and grape seeds are sources of polyphenols with high antioxidant activity.


Antioxidants


Patients Placebo controlled


Study endpoints


Route of administration Treatment


Results/ improvement


Reference/ level of evidence


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96