plant stemcell skin care the core of beauty
Butterfly Bush and Coneflower were also early successes in this field.
“Today’s newest powerhouses in this area – including Edelweiss, Gardenia and Sea Fennel – offer several benefits for the skin such as effective protection fromphoto damage and oxidative stress; a tonic and re- energising effect on tired skin; a deep, firming action to restore skin elasticity and contour around the jaw line and nasolabial areas, especially inmature skin.
“We can extract cells from[these] blossoms long-prized for their beauty and fragrance, cultivate themin the laboratory, and multiply theirmolecular potency by literally 1,000 times
ormore.This incredible concentration, impossible to find in a raw state, allows the product to deliver a power- dose of active ingredients to the consumer. It brings together the best of both worlds – botanical and clinical,” adds Dr Dhatt.
power of plants
Themain function of our skin’s stemcells is to repair and regenerate tissue, yet as the ageing process inevitably takes its toll the amount of cells we possess begins to
decrease.Therefore factors such as fine lines, wrinkles, and sun / age spots unfortunately becomemore noticeable as the regenerative process is no longer working as effectively as it once did.
“As time goes by, skin cells gradually lose their ability to performtheir functions. Fromthe age of 30, the natural cell renewal process slows down,” saysMesoesthetic. “Structural protein synthesis (synthesis of collagen and elastin) decreases, diminishing the cohesion of the skin and resulting in the formation of wrinkles and the loss of skin
tone.The skin becomes thinner and loses density, elasticity and luminosity, while spots and expression lines start to appear.”
This is where plant stemcell technology begins to come in handy. “Stemcells in plants are referred to asMeristematic, or undifferentiated cells,” explains Dr Dhatt. “These chameleon-like cells, carrying the entire DNA gene expression of the entire plant, can ‘morph’ or differentiate into other cell types, to help the plant regenerate.”
In terms of anti-ageing skin care products, they can oftenmimic the body’s cells and when applied, they work to trigger self- renewal in human skin. “As stemcells are our body’smechanisms for repair and replenishing, itmakes sense that certain molecules in complex plant extracts, when
applied topically, wouldmake skin ‘feel damaged’ and so ‘stimulate’ stemcells’,” notes Dr Brockway. “For those of us simply wanting to keep our skin ‘youthful’, we can safely choose products that contain the latest stemcell technology, knowing they are designed after our natural stemcells.”
So, how exactly does the cell extraction process take place? “The first step is to generate theMeristematic cells by slightly cutting the plant,” describes Dr Dhatt. “Triggered by the wounding, plant hormones called auxins cause the plant to forma defensive response called a callus. In this callus tissue, normal, differentiated cells revert to de-differentiated cells and become the stemcells which thenmay be used in stemcell technology. In other words, the experience of being wounded ‘un-scripts’plant cells or erases their role- definition, so that they become neutral in terms of their
function.This capacity to return to a neutral state is known as totipotency.
“Next, themeristematic cells are cultured in a laboratory
setting.There the concentration of phenylpropanoids – active substances created in response to injury or trauma – is multiplied in these cells by 1,000 times or
more.As the stemcells are cultured in this manner, their chemical purity also is enhanced – unlike traditional botanicals – allowing for the ultimate in safety, control and standardisation.When the finished product is applied topically, it triggers self- renewal in human
skin.This effect is further enhanced by the interaction of high percentages of polysaccharides, phytosterols, amino acids andmineral salts, substances which work synergistically to allow dramatic self-repair of the skin.
“The plant stemcells extract has the ability to effectively protect and reactivate our own dermoepidermal stemcells, strengthening the connective tissue structure and improving skin quality and texture,” adds Janssen Cosmetics. “By stimulating the activity of fibroblasts and keratinocytes in collagen and elastin output, the plant stem cells extract exerts a strong anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle effect on the skin.”
questions answered
Much heated discussion and debate surrounding stemcells has taken place recently, with various sections of society deliberating particularly on the ethics of human stem cell use within themedical
arena.Yet, it is important to alleviate any of your own or clients’ fears by stressing that human and plant stemcells are two entirely different entities, as Dr Dhatt explains: “Throughout the past few years, stemcell research in reference to human stemcells hasmade headlines as a controversial
subject.Yet, there is absolutely no relationship between human stemcells and plant stemcells.
He continues: “Awareness of the distinctions between the two will avoid potentialmisunderstandings, as well as any ethical, political, philosophical or religious objections to this promising and earth- friendly technology.
Here are a few points to remember:
• Plant stemcells come fromplants, not human tissue of any kind.
• Plant stemcell research and harvesting does not kill host plants or damage the environment
• Plant stemcell research and product development protects endangered plants and does little damage to the environment because only the tiniest amount of tissue is taken fromthe host plant, which then replaces the tissue; and, with unlimited cells generated fromone culture, the host plant can be planted in small numbers, thus freeing upmore land for food crops and requiring less water for the cultivation of host plants.
Turn the page to discover the latest skin care products and collections utilising plant stemcell technology...
GUILD NEWS 57
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