q&a by dermalogica question time Candice Gardner answers your skin care questions
Q: I amconsidering investing in amachine to treat stretch marks. Do you have any advice on treating this skin issue?
A: Stretchmarks, or striae distensae, are thought to affect between 50-80%of the population, however the exact causes of them are unknown. It is thought that excessive tissue distension (experienced during pregnancy, rapid weight gain and growth spurts), along with prolonged exposure to cortisol and genetics can all play a role.
Many of the current topical creams and Laser treatments focus on stimulating collagen production to increase skin strength and
repair.Most claimto improve the appearance of the stretchmarks and results vary widely.
It is generally accepted that our understanding of the condition is limited and amore comprehensive approach to treatment can only really come about with better knowledge.
Recently a research study into how striae distensae develop was published in the Journal of Investigative
Dermatology.The emphasis of the study was to identify genetic markers that predispose individuals to the condition in a bid to advance knowledge for improved treatment.
The study looked at 33,930 customers of European descent who responded to a survey. Four regions were significantly associated with stretchmarks.
The researchers took skin biopsies and discovered that there was a reduced production of collagen, elastin and fibronectin, which alters the elastic quality of the
skin.This study is to be carried out in populations of non-European descent to establish whether the same geneticmarkers can be identified.
This is a great step forward in getting to know how best to tackle this in terms of product formulation and treatments.
So in answer to your question, do your homework on anymachine that you wish to invest in.With results generally being so variable you need to be absolutely confident that themoney you are spending on the machine can be recouped within a reasonable time-frame. If results are exceptional this will bring clients in.
Think carefully about who your client is. Don’t base your calculations on any clever marketing projections of the revenue X- number of treatments could generate. Be realistic about howmany treatments you will actually do each week. Have you had enough call for the treatment? Or is the investment increased because you need to implement an extensivemarketing campaign to drive business.
Only you can answer these questions about your business and your careful consideration of all these elements will ensure youmake the right decision.
Q: Is it still important to recommend SPF in theWinter months, when there is virtually no sunshine?
A:Absolutely!Although Sun Protection Factor (SPF) specificallymeasures protection against UVB radiation (the part of the UV spectrumthat causes skin burning), more andmore sunscreens offer broad
spectrumprotection.This is what is almost more relevant in terms ofWinter protection
as itmeans skin is protected fromUVA radiation which contributes to ageing and the development of skin cancers.
The UK has a generally low UV Index value of approximately 1-3 during theWinter
months.This suggests that risk of burning in less than two hours of exposure is low or unlikely inmost skins.
However this does not take into account that skin damage is not reliant on burning. Current research shows that long-term exposure to UVA radiation also influences skin
damage.The UV Index is not reflective of UVA, which is relatively constant all year round, can penetrate cloud cover and does not cause burning.
To protect yourself fromthese UVA rays, use a broad spectrumsunscreen that has the designated symbol (UVA in a circle) on the
packaging.These productsmeet EU guidelines and regulations formeasuring the amount of UVA protection. Select a minimumSPF15 broad-spectrumproduct which will have a proportionate level of UVA screening, or opt formoisturisers, primers or foundations that have built in sun protection for added benefit.
Also do not forget that at higher altitude UV is stronger. If you plan to go skiing for the Winter holidays consider that snow can also reflect 85%of the UV.When you combine these factors you are practically doubling your exposure – so be sure to up the level of protection fromSPF15 to SPF30 - SPF50.
Candice Gardner is Education CurriculumManager for the
International Dermal Institute in the UK and Eire, with a breadth of knowledge across all skin care concerns.
t: 08000 564 544
w:
www.dermalinsitute.co.uk @Dermalinstitute
104 GUILD NEWS
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