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6.


6. On the underbody, the truck bolsters are moved inward to accommodate the longer wheelbase trucks. The buffer strips and steps are added at this time. 7. The roof sections are built per the instructions. The author did substitute masking tape for the roofing paper because he felt that the tape is more durable and looks great. The handrails and grab irons, made from .008″ phosphor bronze wire, have been added. 8. The ladder is scratch- built from styrene and phosphor bronze wire. The splash guards are added at this time.


trucks. This requires the bolsters to be moved inward slightly. Two lines are laser-etched into the underside of the car. I moved the bolster one “bolster- width” inward. This is enough to keep the trucks from hitting the steps. I then modified the brass frame caps ac- cordingly and added the brake hard- ware and braces.


I built my own ladder since the one supplied with the kit was not quite to


7.


my liking. I used Evergreen No. 100 styrene for the runners and bits of .008″ phosphor bronze wire for rungs. End rails and splashguards are added per the instructions. I built the cupola window frames from No. 102 styrene strips. The square frame of the win- dows extends inward from the opening in the styrene siding. This gives the clear window glazing something to ad- here to when added later on in the


8.


process. I filled in the gap between the windows with some scrap .010″ styrene. The last piece I added was the window tracks. I used Evergreen No. 101 styrene for this. I wanted to finish all of the major construction before I began adding the Archer rivets. The rivet strips are added the same way as any decal. I cut strips and applied them per the photos. I cheated a bit and used photos of other steel sided cabooses since these appear to all be built in the same manner. When you model the obscure, some- times you have to make educated guesses. After adding the rivets I painted the entire model with Tamiya spray primer. This sealed the wooden parts as well as the rivet strips. It also gave the model a uniform appearance which helped when painting the two colors. I chose to paint the red ends and sill stripe first. I used Polly Scale Soo Line Red for this. The green I chose was Polly Scale MEC Pine Green. These colors are close to the photos I saw. These cabooses weathered horri- bly so you could paint them nearly any shade of red and green! I used MicroScale’s Gothic White let- tering set for the C&IM lettering as well as the numbers. The logo is part of the MicroScale C&IM steam locomo- tive set. While not 100% perfect, these decals are very close to what should be there. If I hadn’t mentioned it, most people probably would not have even noticed! I used Polly Scale Semi-Gloss clear to seal the decals and then gave the model a light misting of Polly Scale Flat Clear to town down the sheen. Once the Flat Clear had dried I added the inner window sashes. I did this in the same manner as the DL&W


RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN


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