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Kitbashing a bakery for Richmond 13. 14.


13. Here are the sidewalk slates under construction. The first and third slates to the right of the author’s index finger show cracks created with the point of a No. 11 blade. The edges of the strip have been distressed a bit. The next step will be to snap them apart, and then paint them. A mixture of 3′×4′ and 4′×4′ sizes were used for the sidewalk. Slate curbstones were cut from .040″ styrene. 14. Almost all of the paving slabs, and curbstones have been installed. The advantage of having individual slabs can be seen here. While it’s possible to have a great looking result by simply scribing slabs into a sheet, being able to color individual slabs allows a much better appearance due to being able to vary


the tones and textures from slab to slab, and then placing them at random. You also get a little variation along the edges. 15. The most difficult part of the kitbash is cutting 35 pieces of glazing for the storefront. The downside of using these beautiful castings is that they are so close to scale, leaving very little leeway when it comes to fitting the individual panes of glass. Due to the design of the muntins, you must cut separate pieces for each opening. It’s tedious, but careful work and frequent breaks will pay off in a great looking storefront. 16. Sifted dirt from the author’s garden– dried for a week or more and then sifted thru window screen–was used to cover over the styrene base.


15.


16.


hold it in place. Next, with a new No. 11 blade I carefully marked the exact location of each corner on the top edge of the roof sheet. Then, from under- neath, I marked the exact location of each corner of the soffit. The sheet was removed from the model and I transferred the top edge marks onto the underside of the roof panel. All that was left was to connect the dots and trim each end to whatever angle was formed. (When this piece is put back in place, what you want to see is the end of the roof sheet exactly bi- secting the angle of the corner when viewed from above. If it’s good, you glue it in place and use the same method to fit the two side sections.) The two small return sections at either end were cut to fit and bonded to the roof. With all the roof pieces in place, the overhang was enough to glue a 2″×4″ strip on edge to form the fascia board at the


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front of the underside edge of the roof. I used HO scale 1″×2″ styrene strips laid flat to form the seams of the sheet metal roofing, spacing them equally about 6′-0″ apart (measured along the bottom edge on the front roof). The left- hand roof has no seams and the right- hand roof, just one in the middle. I added a 6″×12″ cap to the top edge of the four walls that form the store ad- dition, including the two short vertical faces on both of the side walls. I kept them flush on the inside and allowed them to extend a bit past the outer face of the novelty siding. In real life this would help keep water from entering behind the sheathing and causing damage to the building. I created an in- side ledge to rest the main store roof on by gluing ¹₈″ square strip styrene about a foot below the second floor win- dow openings of the house. More strips were extended around the inside walls


of the addition at the same height. A piece of .030″ styrene was cut for the main store roof, and, after making sure that it both fit snugly and that it was also easily removed, I laid it aside until later. Finally, I glued a length of ¹₁₆″ styrene angle onto the corner of the right side wall and the short wall by the porch. This angle stock is an almost exact match for the corner boards cast into the kit’s walls.


Painting and glazing While the glue was curing I cleaned up the remaining door and window castings and the porch railings where they had been attached to the sprues and stuck them to loops of blue tape on a piece of cardboard, ready for paint- ing. The building received two coats of Testors flat gray primer, and the door, windows and railings got one. I assembled the kit roof as per the


SEPTEMBER 2013


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