Kitbashing a bakery for Richmond Harbor 5. 6.
5. The bracketed roof over the storefront is beginning to take shape. The brackets should be over a support that continues to the ground in order to be visually pleasing, and to look right. The Gould parts lend themselves perfectly to this end, and the brack- ets wound up being evenly spaced across the front wall. You can see some of the ¹₈″ strip that forms the ledge that will support the store roof. 6. This view shows the underside detailing on the fin- ished storefront roof. The author cut some pieces from .010″ sheet, about 3″ smaller on all four sides than the spaces between the brackets. When glued into place, they form a raised panel effect between the brackets. Note the 2″×4″ fascia board, glued on edge
7.
under the edge of the roof itself. 7. With the body color applied, the building has really started to pull together. The cap on the top of the four store walls has been installed, and you can see how the storefront roof tucks up neatly under the edge of it. For more detail of the storefront’s construction, see the drawing elsewhere in the article. 8. The roof, painted a deep green, has been set in place, and the trim painted coach olive, the same as the pre-painted windows and doors which are now also installed. The storefront assembly has also been painted coach olive. The model is designed to sit on a corner lot, but it could just as easily be at mid-block, and the home’s front door would then be reached thru an alley.
8.
to the to small jog in the wall. The nar- row floor piece for this area measured 5′-6″ in width, which, combined with the .020″ thickness of the novelty siding, brought the outer face of the wall just about to the inner edge of the corner trim boards on the kit. The addition is 27′-6″ wide, so on the right side the floor and the thickness of the siding on the short wall facing the porch form a snug, recessed area into which the porch fits nicely. When I was satisfied with the fit of the floor to the foundation wall, I glued the two to- gether, added a splice plate to reinforce the joint, and left everything under plenty of weight to dry.
After measuring the height of the as- sembled storefront, I sketched out what I wanted to do to finish the store. Using the Tichy Victorian brackets (corbels) and sheet styrene, I arrived at the con- figuration shown in the drawings. Note
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that the height of the side walls are not straight (continuous) from end to end. The center portion of each is two-feet lower than the end portions. This em- phasizes the storefront cornice and, to my eye, looks just right. The sides can always be built with a straight top, of course. The choice is yours. Following the drawings, the sides
were cut from the novelty siding. I made them slightly longer at the end where they join the house to allow for any fitting needed when everything is put together. A piece of the siding was also cut to go across the front above the windows; the overlap between it and the ends will be covered by trim, but, since it fits between them, the thick- ness of the two adjacent walls had to be taken into consideration for the length. Likewise, the short wall next to the porch is a cut to fit proposition with the side overlapping it; this piece butts
against the corner trim on the house. Note that it is easy to install novelty siding up-side down, as the profile is quite subtle. I usually take a felt tip pen and mark the back of the sheets with several “up” arrows and hope I re- member to look before I cut and glue things.
Assembly It was time to test fit the parts. By now the floor to foundation joint was fully cured, so I put the piece on a sheet of waxed paper on a flat surface, placed the left side wall on the “ground,” and aligned it so it was tight and plumb against the corner of the kit’s wall. (Remember that this piece of siding fits just inside the corner trim on the house. That neatly hides its joint with the clapboard.) Next,
I
placed the storefront window assembly against the other end of the wall and
SEPTEMBER 2013
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