Modeling C&IM caboose No. 31 1.
slowly and carefully or you will most definitely break the bit off in the hole. I then drilled the grab iron holes in the caboose. I use .008″ phosphor bronze wire for all of the grab irons. A little cyanoacrylate on the end of the grab irons will hold them in place for good. The underside of the caboose does re- ceive some modification from the exist- ing configuration. The C&IM cabooses used the older style six-foot wheelbase
2.
1. The wood sides from the kit are stuck to .020″ sheet styrene and traced with a pencil. This will be a pattern for the new “steel” sides. 2. When the styrene sides fit perfectly they are attached to the wood core with cyanoacrylate. The cupola window open- ings were enlarged, as the C&IM modified these windows. 3. The thickness of the styrene siding is the same as the wood sid- ing that is not being used, so the caboose end flooring material should fit perfectly. 4. The brass frame strip fits inside the bottom edge of the styrene siding. Cyanoacrylate will hold this in place permanently. Some body putty may be necessary to clean up the seams between the sides and caboose ends. 5. The window and door parts are added. The .005″ styrene belt rail and verti- cal seams are added at this point. Note the vertical seam scribed into the styrene sid- ing at each corner of the caboose.
3. 4.
the styrene siding near each corner of the caboose.
I built the roof assemblies without major modification. The only change I made was to use masking tape for roof paper instead of the supplied laser cut material. The paper material included with the kit was easily damaged around the edges and needed constant paint touch-ups. The masking tape had a great surface to it and is more durable. I also added the cast metal buffer plate and steps at this time. It is important to drill the holes in the buffer strips prior to installation on the caboose. I used a No. 80 drill bit in my pin vise to accomplish this task. Drill
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5.
SEPTEMBER 2013
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