PROMOTION
ANTI-AGEING SCIENCE APPLIED TREATMENT OF WRINKLES
Professor Jacques Proust discusses how ageing — both intrinsic and extrinsic — can effect the quality of the skin, and what the NESCENS range of cosmeceuticals can offer to patients
O
PR JACQUES PROUST, Co-founder and scientific director of Laboratoires Genolier (Switzerland)
VER THE LAST few years there has been considerable progress made with regard to understanding of
the basic molecular mechanisms underlying the processes of ageing. A now widely accepted primary cause of ageing is the accumulation of molecular damage with time, inherent to our own metabolism, genetic endowment, life history and environmental exposure. This molecular deterioration, in turn, leads to cellular, organic and systemic dysfunction. Among the different components of our organism affected by the ageing process, the skin deserves a place apart. The skin is the largest organ of the body and serves a number of functions: mechanical protection, water barrier, regulation of body temperature, barrier to micro-organisms, excretion of salts, synthesis of vitamin D, sensory and sexual signalling. Its aspect reflects our age, state of health, and life history. The ageing of the skin is a phenomenon with direct consequences on our daily life, as
well as our psychological and social wellbeing.
Skin ageing Owing to its lifetime exposure to external damaging agents, the skin has the disadvantage, compared to other organs, of being submitted to both intrinsic (i.e. chronological) and to extrinsic ageing as a result of deleterious environmental factors, such as UV light, pollution, temperature changes or to behavioural factors such as smoking, drinking and stress. The ageing of the skin manifests in many ways, such as dryness, uneven desquamation, loss of elasticity and texture, thinning, sagging, compromised barrier function, pigmentation, modification of surface lines, and wrinkles. Many molecular and cellular mechanisms related to both intrinsic and extrinsic ageing synergise to alter the youthful appearance of our skin, including: reduced proliferative capacity of keratinocytes; dysfunction of the keratinocyte aquaporins; decreased stratum corneum lipid and hyaluronan synthesis; deficient collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycan production by fibroblasts; alteration of cellular and extracellular components by oxygen free radicals and by advanced glycation end products (AGE); dysfunction of melanocytes; and much more. To effectively combat age- and
110 ❚
sun-related skin changes, a multifaceted approach is required. Any treatment for mature skin must
March 2013 |
prime-journal.com
address the many mechanisms implicated in skin alteration.
NESCENS development Building on the range of scientific knowledge accumulated, the research team of the Swiss Laboratoires Genolier developed NESCENS, a line of cosmeceutical products specifically designed to oppose an efficient pharmaceutical action to the identified biological mechanisms responsible for age- and sun-related skin deterioration. The originality of the NESCENS
line resides in the large number of active ingredients contained in its formulations. These active ingredients have been selected from the data of the international scientific literature. Their efficiency in the treatment of aspects of age- and sun-associated cutaneous changes has been demonstrated through clinical and biological experiments conducted by independent laboratories. The results of the pertaining studies have been published in peer-reviewed scientific articles. Furthermore, these ingredients have been chosen for their documented synergistic effects, and integrated into NESCENS at biologically active concentrations, as defined in scientific studies. The NESCENS development
process required our teams to radically change their working methods in order to achieve a perfect mastery of the formulation process in such a complex molecular environment. The biologically active substance was incorporated in a
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140