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Car construction Construction of the sides follows fa- miliar styrene scratchbuilding proce- dures and as many commercial parts as possible are used. The sides are laid out on Evergreen Scale scribed car siding and widow openings are cut and lined with .010″ thick strip sashes and frames. Cutting the door openings weakens the sides, so have the door blanks ready to install behind the openings. Prepare the four door blanks from .020″ plain styrene sheet. The blank is 7′-0″ tall and 8′-0″ wide. The centered door window is 18″×24″; its bottom is 3′-3″ from the bottom of the door blank. Line the door edges with quarter round and flat for the lintel and sill. The door railings are long and need


some extra strength to withstand han- dling. Rather than brass, I used Tichy .0125″ phosphor bronze wire for both the door railings and the grab irons. Terminate them at each end with a Tichy nut-bolt-washer. On the inside of the side, add a ledge to support the floor. Make it from .060″×.060″ styrene strip and position it one foot up from the bottom and align it with the bottoms of the doors. It does not cross the doors. The model side and end thicknesses


lead to a floor 54′-1″ long and 8′-10″ wide made from .040″ styrene sheet. The prototype photo shows two truss rods at the outer edges. That leaves room along the center for the ACF cen- ter sill. The photo shows a straight cen- ter sill, not a “fish belly.” Simulate it with ¹₄″ I-beam sides and a 010″×.188″ cover plate. To support both the outer edge of the


floor boards and the lower edge of the sides, use a .060″ angle. A single .030″ wide stringer centered on each side of the center sill is .015″ thick to match the flanges of the center and side sills. Needle beams and cross braces go be- tween the side sill and the center sill. Neither the ends of the needle beams nor any cross braces are visible at the lower edge of the car side. In the prototype photo, the visible brake equipment hangs lower than the center sill. Use UC style of passenger brakes hanging from brackets. The brackets


are cut from .015″×.030″


strip to fit the sizes of the Bethlehem Car Works brake components. Air and signal line plumbing follows the usual practice outlined in kit instructions. A variety of Detail Associates brass wires sizes are used. Each is cut to fit and glued in place. For the car ends, several curved pieces with the same shape needed to be made. To do this I made a brass tem- plate. The template curvature is taken


RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN


from a J. H. Geissel drawing of Ma & Pa baggage No. 42 that was featured in the September, 1952, issue of Model Railroader. With the template, I cut end blanks and fascias from .020″ styrene sheet and roof braces from .040″ styrene sheet. The ends and roof braces are the width of the floor. The fascia pieces are at least .040″ wider than the floor.


The arrangement of the end compo- nents is taken from a Charles T. Ma- han, Jr. photo in the Ma & Pa Histori- cal Society publication, Timetable, for Summer, 2007, page 26. Just as on the sides, Evergreen No.


2037 scribed siding is the basis for the ends. Its outer edge reaches to the top of the side fascia.


Cutting the door opening in the end


leaves it very weak. Prepare a door blank of plain styrene sheet 5′-0″ wide and 8′-0″ tall. The opening for the end door is 3′-0″ wide, centered on the end. Its bottom is 1′-0″ up from the bottom.


Parts List


Accumate No. 1020 Couplers


Bethlehem Car Works No. 12 Brakes No. 88 Steps


Campbell Scale Models No. 256 Chain


Clover House No. 7560-03 Lettering No. 9603-18 Numbers


Detail Associates No. 2503 .010″ Brass wire No. 2505 .015″ Brass wire No. 2507 .022″ Brass wire No. 2206 Wire eyes


Evergreen Scale Models No. 9006 .010″ Clear styrene sheet No. 9020 .020″ Plain styrene sheet No. 9040 .040″ Plain styrene sheet No. 2037 3.25″ Styrene siding No. 2060 .020″×.060″ Scribed siding No. 225 ⁵₃₂″ Styrene rod No. 247 .040″ Quarter Round No. 271 ¹₄″ I Beam No. 225 .060″ Angle Styrene strip: No. 100 .010″×.020″ For window frames No. 102 .010″×.040″ For door edges No. 104 .010″×.080″ For end door trim No. 105 .010″×.100″ For window sashes No. 108 .010″×.188″ For sill cover plate No. 111 .015″×.030″ For stringer No. 120 .020″×.020″ For filler No. 122 .020″×.040″ For end door sill, step No. 123 .020″×.060″ For side door sill No. 124 .020″×.080″ For end buffer


No. 126 .020″×.125″ For side fascia No. 153 .060″×.060″ For side, floor brace No. 165 .080″×.100″ For end sill No. 178 .100″×.188″ For body bolster


Grandt Line No. 5053 10 Queen posts No. 3902 .020″ Rod


Kadee No. 2021 Brake wheel


Polly Scale No. 414188 CNW Green No. 414311 Earth No. 414137 Grimy Black


Testors No. 1260 Dullcote No. 1261 Glosscote


Tichy Train Group No. 3013 Brake housings No. 3015 18 Drop grabs No. 8016 Nut-bolt-washer 1.75″ No. 6018 .030″ Rivets No. 8034 Truss rod ends No. 8021 Turnbuckles No. 1106 Wire .0125″


Stern No. 10010 Monofilament 12 mil.


Walthers No. 706822 Decal film No. 1077 Trucks


Woodland Scenics No. 836 2 - 56 x ½″ Screws No. 824 00 - 90 x ½″ Screws No. 894 No. 2 Washers


75


The top is 7′-6″ up from the bottom. Glue the door blank on the back promptly.


Line the side edges and the door panel as with the side doors. Pre-cut .020″ curved fascia goes at the top of the end. Fill the side edge overhang with pieces of .020″×.020″. The filler above the door is cut to fit from an extra piece of curved fascia. I used Tichy .0125″ phosphor bronze wire for the end railings. The end sill is an 11′-0″ long piece of


.080″×.100″. The .100″ side is against the end. The sill overhangs the ends equally; it will be trimmed to length when the sides are in place. Fill the gap between the back of the end sill and the edge of the side with pieces of .020″ cut to fit. The buffer centered on the end sill is a 3′-0″ piece of .020″× .080″. Add .040″ quarter round along the end edges between the end sill and the bottom of the fascia. The quarter round is flush with the back of the end.


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