Canadian Pacific section house South North
Full size for N scale: .075″ = 1′-0″; 1.160
Remember, you are not trying to cut through the card, so excessive pressure is not required. The four walls should be scored vertically at their ends using a metal square. Again, do not cut through them; approximately half-way should be sufficient. Later they will be bent to form a rectangular box. Window and door openings are next.
Lay them out according to the draw- ings; however, in order to obtain the correct final dimensions shown on the drawings, allow for the thickness of the bottom sill and trim pieces on the other three sides. With this in mind, score the window and door openings two inches wider and three inches higher than indicated on the drawings. Once again, do not cut through them. If you wish to simulate nail holes in the boards it must be done at this stage, prior to painting. This may be done by pricking each board lightly with a fine needle in a pin vise. A metal square will be useful for keeping the rows in alignment on 24-inch centers. Although 24-inch spacing is not the standard in construction today, I have noticed some older
structures built
with that spacing, and it does make this rather tedious part of the project a little easier. After painting the walls by rub-staining, as outlined previously, cut out openings for windows and doors, then trim away the excess mate- rial from around the walls. You may bend the walls to form a rectangle but do not join the free ends yet. Prior to attaching the doors and win- dows it is necessary to increase the wall thickness to four inches around their openings, as shown in Figure 2. This is accomplished by gluing four-ply card strips around the wall’s inside surface with a one-ply overlay to accommodate the lower portion of the double-hung sashes. Although I specified a 12″ width in the drawing for these strips, the di- mension is not critical. You may now glue the completed doors and windows to the inside walls with about three
58 Fig. 2
slight downward angle for shedding water. Window and door frame boards are 1″×6″ strips of one-ply card ap- plied as shown in Figure 3. With a neat finish in mind, prior to applying all trim and frame boards it is necessary to touch up the raw white ends of each with paint. The structure’s walls, in- cluding doors, windows and framing, should now be complete and painted on the exterior. The corner trim boards will be applied later. One final detail concerning the doors is their door knobs. I made mine from straight pins which were chucked into a motor tool, filed to size, and then pressed into a pre-drilled hole. Should you find the fit too loose, a little white glue on the door’s inside will secure the pin. The four walls may now be folded to
Fig. 3
inches showing across the top and along each side, which will be reduced to two inches after applying trim. Approxi- mately six inches should be exposed across the bottom of each window sash, to be reduced to four after installation of a two-inch thick sill. The doors are handled in a similar fashion but are less critical across their bottoms.
Trim the doors and windows (see
Figure 3) with pre-painted 1″×4″ strips of one-ply card across the depth of their opening at the top and along the sides. Next, add window and door sills notched to fit into the opening against each door or sash with the ends against the walls. The sills should be cut from 2″×8″ or larger stripwood. A wider cut will assist in trimming to achieve a more accurate fit with re- spect to the overhang of the framing boards beneath each window. The win- dow and door sills should extend about one inch on each side of the framing boards. Remember to place the sill at a
form a rectangular structure and the two free ends joined by gluing them with a 12″×12″ stripwood brace (see Figure 4). All bracing running along the walls at ground level must be re- cessed enough to clear a four-ply floor.
NOVEMBER 2012
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