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More Questions And Answers Robert A. Rinker


who know about my interest in ballis- tics. Following are a few I have received recently that I believe will be interesting to readers of The Varmint Hunter Maga- zine®. (And limited to the ones where I know the answer.) Question from California: I have


S


recently been in an argument about which shoots harder, a bolt-action rifl e or an automatic and with a shotgun, a pump or an automatic. Answer: First we should agree on


some terms. I suppose you intended to write semiautomatic. Automatic is a type of fi rearm that will feed and load cartridges, fi re and then eject the case and continue as long as the trigger is depressed and cartridges are in the magazine. Many semiautomatic fi re- arms are incorrectly called automatics. A semiautomatic is a fi rearm that


is self-loading but will fi re only one time when the trigger is pulled. Hold- ing back the trigger will not fi re another cartridge. The trigger would have to be released and pulled again. In the gas-operated rifl e, a very


small amount of gas is taken from the barrel to operate a piston, which actu- ates the breech mechanism. While it is true that this will reduce the gas pres- sure, it is such a tiny amount that it can be overlooked. Both a pump and semiautomatic


shotgun are fi red from a closed breech; therefore, there is no difference in ve- locity or pressure, if everything else is equal. In both types of actions, the shot charge will have left the barrel before the breech has begun to unlock. Neither system will have a loss of pressure other than what is normal. Pressure, as used in fi rearm bal-


listics, is the thrust of the gas (force) created by igniting the powder charge. This thrust is against the interior of the case, the chamber, base of the bullet, etc. Safe pressure can vary from 5,000 psi for a black powder gun and 15,000 psi for a .38 Special revolver to 54,000 psi for a .270 Winchester rifl e and 55,000 psi. in a .22-250 Remington rifl e. All are aver-


Page 120 July — September 2011


ometimes I receive questions from readers and other people


ages and the .22-250 is not the highest, but is darn close. Question from a gentleman in


Kentucky: Could you give me some pointers and instructions on how to refi nish a rifl e stock, or add fi nish to a new stock?


Answer: First, let me say that I am


not the best person to seek an answer from as I have spent much of my life doing metal work, and I don’t care for woodwork. Having said that, I recently refi nished a new stock that I put on a lifter-action Parker shotgun that was made during their fi rst year in business. (Yes, I know that you shouldn’t replace the stock on a rare Parker, but this was a gun I purchased at an auction. It had perfect metal and a badly broken stock.) First, I have several books on


gunsmithing, and I looked at each and picked the one that had the best infor- mation on stock work. If you don’t have a good gunsmithing manual, I suggest you purchase one. You can order one from Brownells or Amazon.com with- out leaving your home. Of course there are other sources, but these are the two that come to mind as this is written. I have made purchases from both sources with success. One thing I learned from my re-


cent experience is it takes time to do a good job. The sanding alone took hours as I worked my way down to very fi ne sandpaper that would leave a glass smooth fi nish. I used Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil


Stock Finish and just followed the di- rections on the bottle, along with the comments and hints in the gunsmithing book. Of course, there are many other fi nishes available from Brownells and other supply companies. Some people like to use just ordinary linseed oil, but I understand it is very time consuming and tedious. In these modern times, you can even purchase a spray-on fi nish. There also are products for spruc-


ing up an old stock without removing the old fi nish and adding a new one. I tried one such product many years ago and was not happy with it. I’m sorry, but I cannot mention the product’s


name, as I don’t recall it. I realize that this is not too helpful,


but as I mentioned earlier, purchase a good gunsmith book and follow the advice therein. Most books devote an entire chapter, and in some cases, two or more, to just stock fi nishing. Good luck, and I wish you a lot of patience. You will need it. Question from Chicago: Several


of us have been arguing about bluing a rifl e barrel. Does bluing inside the bore affect the accuracy? Answer: No. How is that for a


short answer? Sometimes a newly blued barrel will pick up fouling for the fi rst few shots, but a brass bristle brush drawn through the bore will clean it out and it should not occur again. The fi rst few bullets fi red will either remove the bluing or smooth it down. It is very thin and not up to the heat and friction of fi ring. If a freshly blued barrel tends to not be as accurate as before bluing, I would look elsewhere for the problem. Question by email: I want to cut


off some of the barrel of my Winchester Model 70, but I do not want to hurt the performance. How much can I remove and can I do it without a lathe. I am a retired tool and die maker, so I can do metal working. Answer: First we must remember


that any rifl e barrel cut below 18 inches is illegal under Federal law, unless it is registered under the Federal fi rearms act. Also, anything under about 20 inch- es will have a very unpleasant muzzle blast. Of course, that is just my opinion, and you may not be bothered by it. Back in ancient times, I served a


tool and die apprenticeship at a large national corporation that also sent me to engineering college. You will have no trouble getting the end square. Just remember to do something about the bore at the muzzle so it is smooth and has nothing that will affect the accuracy. Some chamfering and lapping will do wonders.


Now, let’s look at some of the technical aspects of barrel length. Barrel length is an important fac- tor in bullet effi ciency as it relates to


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