NEXT STOP NAPLES


One of Europe’s largest and oldest cities Naples is a chaotic, surprising and intense place stuffed with character, modern life and history


GRAND HOTEL VESUVIO Oh yes, constructed in 1892 this palace has old-world grandeur in spades paired with sleek contemporary furnishings. The Vesusvio has played host to a multitude of A-listers including Grace Kelly, Jude Law, Bogart, Pavarotti and many more. If you don’t fancy the Echia Spa, you can explore the Sky Lounge bar on the roof with spectacular views to die for. www.vesuvio.it/en | €€€€


STAY


ART RESORT The most lavish location belongs to the four-star Art Resort, an extravagantly Baroque hotel that occupies part of the Galeria Umberto. While the furnishings look like they could be museum pieces, the service gets mixed reviews, reflected in the low rates. Doubles typically cost €100, including breakfast. Your typical grand Italian hotel - just needs a little TLC. www.artresortgalleriaumberto.it | €€€


ROYAL CONTINENTAL For a quieter location, overlooking the bay with Vesuvius as a constant reminder of the power of our restless earth, the four- star Royal Continental at Via Partenope is the perfect choice for a romantic weekend. The general decor and facilities are modern with that little bit of Italian tiredness one tends to find in most hotels there. Doubles with breakfast are available for €109, including use of the rooftop pool. www.royalgroup.it/royalcontinental | €€€€


190 | AUTUMN 2019 | ONBOARD


PRIMO PIANO POSILLIPO Located in Naples’ pretty, seaside Posillipo neighbourhood, the hotel opened in February this year. The décor is solid and is a colourful vision of contemporary style, showcased in its four airy suites, www.primopianoposillipo.it | €€€€


EAT MIMÌ ALLA FERROVIA


In a convivial dining room embellished with its original 1941 frescoes of Naples and portraits of bygone Italian celebrity regulars, Mimì alla Ferrovia serves dishes that have barely changed over time, with an equally immutable and formally dressed staff. A dynasty of four family generations of owners put continuity at the heart of this restaurant in the central train station neighbourhood. The traditional recipes, include bass ravioli with butter, broth, shrimp and squid and a ricotta of the region’s special buffalo milk topped with his housemade Vesuvian tomato jam.


CASA DI NINETTA Serving what the owner, Carmelo Sastri, calls ‘my mother’s and my grandmother’s home-cooking’ in this decade-old operation run with his sister, the well-known Italian singer and actor Lina Sastri. Under an ornate, late-19th-century ceiling, with classical music in the background, the restaurant prepares magnificent renditions of Neapolitan traditions, like bocconcini di baccalà (fried codfish balls), and the dense onion ragù of pasta Genovese.


PIZZERIA DI MATTEO The city’s most popular pizza offering. Try the marinara topped with tomato, basil, oregano and olive oil, sometimes the basic ingredients are the best. Great atmosphere, great staff.


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