Vol. 64, No. 2 Summer 2019 164
14.
red along the rail to give it some depth and grain. T e same treatment was applied to mast and bowsprit.
Once thoroughly dry, the rail was masked off , as well as the bottom of the upper hull. T e two major hull sections and rudder were sprayed gloss black. Some minor surface imperfections were seen (gloss paint is very unforgiving that way!), so more spot putty, smoothing and re-priming was required, followed by black again until a satisfactory fi nish resulted. T is was the most protracted and fussy part of the building process.
For a better-looking fi nish, the black paint was lightly rubbed down using pumice. T is is a very fi ne powdered, volcanic abrasive powder that ‘cuts’ surface gloss to produce a velvety sheen. I applied the pumice using a wetted piece of felt. T e surface was then rubbed in a circular motion. (Figure 14)
If you decide to use pumice, be careful to wait until the paint layer is fully hardened and do not use much pressure. If you do, you will rub right through the fi nish coat and will have to repaint your work. Wipe the powdered remnants of pumice off gently with a wet paper towel. Should you want a higher gloss fi nish, repeat this process using rottenstone powder. However, use respiratory protection, as particles of these materials are very light and fi ne.
15.
T e boot topping liſt was masked and sprayed with a light cream-colored paint. Pure white would have made too stark a contrast against the black.
T e deck of the original model appeared to be painted a pale somewhat greenish buff . I could not determine if this color had been altered by heat. A reasonable match was found with Humbrol matt 103. T ree coats of paint were applied, each lightly sanded down using 400-grit aſt er they had dried.
All that remained was for fi nal assembly and to make a backboard for the model. (Figure 15) Note that on the original half-model, the rudder had become displaced from its proper position. T e larger-scale contemporary full-hull model was used to locate the rudder on the new model correctly. Short lengths of dowel were glued into the holes in the boot-topping liſt , projecting on both sides. T e liſt s were then glued together, the dowel locator pins providing positive alignment.
Aſt er clamping and cleanup of the glue, some very minor retouching was required, followed by a dilute coat of acrylic varnish over the painted ‘woodwork’.
T e backboard on the original model is 6 inches wide by 22½ inches long and is ¾-inch thick. It appears to be of jarrah wood, eucalyptus marginata. (Bramwell 1986, 240-241) Australian jarrah being unavailable, I substituted sapele, entandrophragma cylindricum,
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