Nautical Research Journal
two liſt s are ½-inch thick, then the waterline layer 3/16-inch thick, a further ½-inch layer and fi nally the fi n and bulb keel, ¼-inch thick, placed on edge. Two holes were drilled for locator pegs through the four horizontal liſt s. (Figures 4 and 5) Without these positive locators, there is every possibility of slippage and misalignment when gluing up the hull later on.
T e liſt s were marked with their appropriate waterlines and cut to shape on the scroll saw. T ey were then temporarily assembled using rubber cement. T e fi rst shaping operation was to cut the top of the model down to the sheer at the centerline of the deck. Again, careful marking out paid dividends. T e majority of the waste was removed using a chisel aſt er making a series of vertical cuts on the scroll saw. T ese cuts can just be seen in Figure 4. Further shaping was varied out with a rasp, then fl exible sanding sticks.
Once the correct sheer was established, the round up of the deck needed to be shaped. For this, I made a specially-shaped sanding block. (Figure 6) T e radius of the round up, in this instance, as taken from the full-hull model and reduced in scale, was 15 inches. I used a wooden radius template to mark out the block before cutting it to shape. In use, one hand holds the block against the inner face of the model while the other hand moves the block along, simultaneously applying pressure. (Figure 7) T is method worked extremely well, although it was a slow process. However, I did remove the bulk of the waste fi rst using a chisel. 60-grit sandpaper, applied to the block using rubber cement, was used to complete the round up. T e coarse paper was replaced with fi ner grades for fi nishing the deck surface.
Next, a block was screwed to the back of the model so that it could be held in a vise. (Figure 8) T e extension supported the fi n, to which it was rubber cemented. Shaping the hull was carried out in the usual way. First a well-sharpened chisel and gouges were used to remove the bulk of waste. (Figure 9) T e hull was further refi ned using a #12 rasp and sandpaper in various grades. T e shape was controlled by the use of templates shaped to the arbitrary station lines at intervals along the hull and, of course, the liſt s. (Figure 10)
Once the hull was shaped, the holding block was removed. T e next step was to make and attach the toe rail. T is rail varies in height from just under ¼-inch in height at the bow down to 1/32-inch at the stern. It is consistently 1/8-inch wide—4 inches
161
6.
5.
7.
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100