SLOW TOURISM ❘ GERS
In Lectoure, I enjoyed a white linen lunch (le Menu de Saison, €44) at the immaculate Le Bastard (stop sniggering) hotel-restaurant – during which I demolished their stunning speciality dessert of prune soufflé with Armagnac and accompanying ice cream in about one minute. It more than provided sustenance for a brief tour of this lovely market town.
From top: An aerial view of Lectoure; the stunning prune and Armagnac soufflé at Le Bastard; Tommy’s Parc water activity centre
I spy scallop shells on walkers’ backpacks everywhere – a sign that we are on the Chemin de Saint-Jacques de Compostelle pilgrims’ way – as I explore the journey-through-time architecture. From prehistory to being a Gallo-Roman city, then from being the medieval capital of the local Lomagne area to its gentrification in the 19th century thanks to tanning industries, this is an edifice-admirer’s paradise. The 12th-century Saint-Gervais cathedral is majestic – if you can, explore the wonderful collection of ecclesiastical
GERS ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE Fly to Toulouse airport from many UK airports and Paris. L’Isle Jourdain is just 25 minutes away on the N124.
WHERE TO STAY
La Mirande de Saint-Clar, a high quality maison d’hôtes with pool and fine breakfast. Prices from €105 per night.
www.mirandesaint-clar.fr/web/en
WHERE TO EAT
Le Comptoir des Colibris:
lecomptoirdescolibris.fr Hotel de Bastard:
www.hotel-de-bastard.com/restaurant
TOURISM CONTACT Gers Tourism:
holidays-gers.com
74 ❘ FRANCE TODAY Oct/Nov 2023
“THE 12TH-CENTURY SAINT- GERVAIS CATHEDRAL IS MAJESTIC – IF YOU CAN, EXPLORE THE WONDERFUL ECCLESIASTICAL TREASURES”
treasures and, upstairs, the 17th-century cupboard for priests’ robes – fascinating! Lectoure is vibrant even on a Sunday, with plentiful cafés, boutiques and local produce shops, plus there’s a ‘brocante village’, a magnet for seekers of second-hand bargains. Leaving Lectoure, there’s one final stop just outside town. Tommy’s Parc (entry just €3 per day) is a brand new water activity centre on an immaculate clearwater lake with sandy beach. While its inflatable assault course, paddleboards and canoes are perhaps aimed at the nimbler adrenaline seeker, in the interests of my seriously slow tourism ethos, I opt for a leisurely pedalo jaunt, dreamily reflecting on Gers’ rich rustic offerings as I go. FT
IMAGES © CDT GERS, N. BACHOUX, G. VILMINOT, C. LAFFONT, S. DAUDIRAC, J.L. PEREIRA
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