CAFÉ CULTURE ❘ PARIS LIFE
The relentless pace of life is concerning for the future of the café. Luckily, there are some who seem up to the task, such as Guillaume Courtois, who is the young proprietor of several cafés, including Les Turbines in the 2nd arrondissement. And according to Benezet, Courtois is not alone in bringing much-needed new energy to the capital’s café scene.
“I see young people coming into this line of work,” says Benezet, optimistically. “They are coming to relieve us.” He fi rmly believes that café’s darkest days – the closures of the 1970s and the threat of terrorism in 2015 – are behind us. “We lived through the downturn,” he says. “In my opinion, it’s come and gone.” In its place, a slowly growing nostalgia-fuelled fashion is paving the way for a new raft of neo- bouillons and neo-bistros, showing, perhaps, that today’s younger generation might not fi nd the café quite as corny as they once did.
“There’s a bit of a braking in their disappearance,” acknowledges Benezet. “People have realised that neighbourhood cafés unite people. And today, more than ever, we need these spaces where people come together.” We’ll raise a cup of coffee to that. FT
stopped using Cafés Richard as a coffee supplier. It was only four or fi ve years later, according to Denamur, that CEO Arnaud Richard himself returned to Les Philosophes in an attempt to bring Denamur back into the fold.
Denamur acquiesced – on the condition that Richard supply new machines and the company’s premium line – a line which Tramuta declares is “not half-bad”.
BACK IN FASHION
Denamur now brews organic Mexican espresso on a Marzocco, an Italian sports car of a machine. His espresso comes with an organic Valrhona chocolate and, at €2.20, is only slightly more expensive than the €2 average (and a steal compared to the €3 charged by a craft spot a few blocks away). His always-bustling café is an excellent example of how the space can both stay relevant and maintain its historic role. Denamur plans to retire in 17 years, but his staff are beginning to take their leave. This summer will mark the last for Pierre-André ‘Pierrot’ Ayer , who has been the chef at Les Philosophes for 33 years. And while Denamur’s son has expressed an interest in the family business, he’s only 13. Plus, as Denamur knows only too well, being a café owner is a commitment. “It’s not just a weekend or a month or two,” he says. “If you don’t love it, you shouldn’t do it. Otherwise you drown.”
From left: Extérieur Quai near Gare de l’Est and La Perle in the Marais
Au Petit Fer à Cheval – Xavier Denamur’s Marais café is known for its 19th-century U-shaped bar – the perfect place to rub shoulders with locals.
Extérieur Quai – Marcel Benezet’s café by Gare de l’Est has a bright, airy room and a lovely bar that serves €1 coffee from 7am to 9am.
La Perle – This personal favourite in the Marais is an absolute delight and serves a pretty decent pizza. Moreover, the servers positively fawn over local regulars staking out solo tables by the window.
Au Sauvignon – One of Sabes’ favourites serves coffee with a butter cookie from Poilane and has been in the same family for three generations. “Every morning they reserve a table for a man who brings his own honey and sits there for hours, writing long-hand on a white paper pad,” says Sabes.
Au Petit Suisse – This café-bistro, steps from the Luxembourg Gardens, is a favourite of Tramuta’s for their devilled eggs and the nice mix of locals and travellers.
Oct/Nov 2023 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 41 PARIS CAFÉS PICK OF THE BEST
While experts agree that the best café is the one closest to home, here are a few worth a trip according to Emily Monaco
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