COGNAC ❘ CITY FOCUS
FIVE MUST-SEE SITES IN COGNAC
From famous eau-de-vie houses to river cruises to delightful historic streets, there’s plenty to see and do in Cognac…
VISIT THE HISTORIC COGNAC HOUSES There are hundreds of them, from household names to small, lesser-known houses. Bache Gabrielsen and the G&C Raby estate, for example, both offer fascinating tours and tastings.
STROLL IN THE OLD TOWN Cognac’s historic centre is as charming as they come. Grab a map from the tourist offi ce (in French and English) to locate the historic highlights, stopping in at Saint- Léger church, the covered market, and the local speciality shops along the way.
TAKE A CRUISE LA DEMOISELLE Two delightful captains point out the major sights as you meander down the beautiful Charente, taking in the best views of the city’s famous Cognac houses and its 10th-century château and beyond. This is a relaxing moment out of time.
ENJOY A COGNAC COCKTAIL On the banks of the Charente, Bar Luciole is a chic spot to sample more than 200 Cognacs, while Indigo, on the rooftop of the legendary Martell Cognac house, offers the best panoramas of the city and the vineyards beyond.
This image and below: The Charente river fl owing through Cognac; the
picturesque old streets with the bell tower of Saint-Léger Church in the background
THE COGNAC FESTIVAL Held every July for the last 20 years, the Fête du Cognac highlights all the local deliciousness, with tastings of Pineau de Charente fortifi ed wine and, of course, Cognac, accompanied by gastronomic specialities and live music.
as long as it’s in the barrel, and for Bache Gabrielsen’s most rarefi ed blends, Bergier draws from nectars dating back to the founding of the house in 1906.
Descending into the dank, dark subterranean cellars rendered even duskier by the black mould that populates the walls and casks, my guide at Baron Otard, set in Cognac’s picturesque medieval château, leads me to paradise. That’s the name for the inner sanctum of every Cognac house where the oldest elixirs are stored in giant oblong glass bonbonnes nestled in straw baskets, some dating as far back as the mid-19th-century. Unlike fi ne wines, which continue to age in the bottle, Cognac’s ageing process ceases once the liquor is in glass. I’m invited to sample a ten-year-old Cognac ready for bottling. But I hardly need a taste: the 40 to 70 per cent alcoholic fumes emanating from nectars ageing in hundreds of stacked oak barrels is heady enough. “La part des anges,” – the angel’s share – she explains, the roughly three per cent of evaporated eau-de-vie sacrifi ced to the air, representing about 34m bottles a year. A staggering number, but given that 212m bottles were shipped globally in 2022, and many millions more are stored
❯❯ Oct/Nov 2023 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 35
IMAGES © SHUTTERSTOCK, J LADONNE, COGNAC TOURISME, THEO SCHUMAN, FÊTE DU COGNAC/FACEBOOK, MARTELL
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132