LES OIGNONS ❘ TASTE THE TERROIR
CHEESE BOARD
With Nick Bayne, cheese specialist at The Fine Cheese Co.
The mountains of Savoie and Haute- Savoie are home to some of France’s most iconic cheeses, nearly all available either in their village dairy versions, or single herd, farmstead (fermier) incarnations, many crafted from the milk of local Tarine and Abondance cows. Reblochon de Savoie – with its
powerful aromas of farm and leather – dominates, with mellow yet funky slices famously folded into a comforting home of potatoes and lardons in Savoie’s most famous dish, tartiflette. Then there are the mountain giants of Beaufort and Emmental de Savoie, the former matured to firm, sweet, slightly fruity complexity, and the summer milk version bursting with browned butter and meadow. Far rarer is Beaufort Chalet d’Alpage, made only from alpine milk and crafted by hand in small huts, and the similarly ancient-method Bleu de Termignon and Persillé de Tignes. The earthy, mushroomy and plump Tomme de Savoie, Tomme des Bauges and Tomme Crayeuse are the ubiquitous table cheeses of the region. Not to be forgotten are incredible
goat’s cheeses, such as the pungent Chevrotin des Aravis and the young, snowy Tarentais. And, of course, there is meltable Raclette in nearly every corner of these Alps. C’est le paradis du fromage!
www.finecheese.co.uk
SPOTLIGHT ON CUISINE Nice to know…
Gastronomes heading to Nice are in for a foodie delight as the city revamps its ‘Cuisine Nissarde, le respect de la tradition’ label, which was originally set up a quarter of a century ago, to help visitors discover the very best of the local cuisine. This year, 33 restaurants and takeaways have been awarded in two different
categories: one for restaurants and ‘Merenda e Goustaroun’ for street food. Merenda is a typical local snack such as the pan bagnat, crusty bread drenched in olive oil and garnished with the ingredients of a salade niçoise salad, or perhaps socca, a thin chickpea flour flatbread cooked on a large tray and cut up into portions. Hungry tourists can spot which restaurants have received the Cuisine Nissarde
label by the logo in their window. The label is awarded to restaurateurs “who work to enhance the value of Nice’s cuisine, who are committed to respecting recipes, the quality of the products and raw materials used, the quality of reception and customer information, and compliance with health and safety regulations”. The development of trade routes from the 18th century onwards was a huge influence on the food of Nice, whose sunny, Mediterranean cuisine draws on both the land and the sea. Apart from the world-famous salad, other emblematic recipes include pissaladière (a tart topped with onions, olives and anchovies), stuffed vegetables, capouns (cabbage leaves stuffed with ham, rice, veggies and herbs and simmered in wine) and sweet chard pie. Want to learn how to make these mouthwatering delights for yourself so you can
enjoy them even when you’re not en France? Sign up for a course at the Atelier de cuisine niçoise, where a local chef will teach you traditional, local culinary skills in the heart of Vieux Nice, near the bustling Cours Saleya market.
www.explorenicecotedazur.com/en/ atelier-cuisine-nicoise
OFF TO FRANCE? ADD THESE THREE AUTUMN FOOD FESTIVALS TO YOUR ITINERARY CULINARY CALENDAR
From top: A trader at Cours Saleya Market slices up socca; pissaladière is another local dish
FÊTE DU PIMENT
Head to Espelette (Pyrénées-Atlantiques) on October 28 and 29 and join in the celebration of its iconic red pepper. There will be choirs, dancing, market stalls, parades and a solemn mass to bless the peppers.
SALON DU CHOCOLAT The Paris Chocolate Fair returns from October 28 to November 1. Chocolatiers, pâtissiers, cacao growers and others unite in a feast for the senses, including the famous fashion show featuring chocolate couture.
BEAUJOLAIS NOUVEAUS
From November 16-19 across France, glasses will be raised to toast and taste the first wine of the season. Of course, if you can be in the Beaujolais region itself, all the better – there will be plenty going on!
Oct/Nov 2023 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 53
IMAGES © PIERRE-YVES BEAUDOUIN / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS, SHUTTERSTOCK, TASAKA SAMA / WIKIMEDIA COMMONS
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