CANAL DU MIDI ❘ FRENCH WATERWAYS


Clockwise from above: Lucille at Châ teau Paraza, which was once home to Pierre-Paul Riquet; chatting with the lock-keepers; Le Somail’s picturesque bridge; the oval lock; it’s a tight squeeze in the oval lock; thousands of books line the walls at Le Trouve Tout du Livre


We were shown around the grounds and the castle, which operates as a B&B and has fi ve gorgeous rooms, before reaching the tasting room. Though they sit on old knowledge, the family is excited to be introducing new methods to winemaking, inspired by their experiences abroad. “It’s very exciting to be here now because new winemakers are coming with new ideas in a region which is full of old families and their traditions,” Lucille explained while pouring the glasses. We tasted no fewer than nine wines from the estate, going from white, to rosé, to red. Somewhat giggly, we headed back to our vessels and continued our navigation, reaching Le Somail in the pretty evening light. Once famous for its plane trees lining the canal, the port looks quite different now as all the trees had to be culled due to the disease plaguing the area’s platanes for the past few years. Still, it is a beautiful little village and we sat down for dinner at Le Comptoir Nature where, as well as a great meal, we were entertained by the resident goose and duck family waddling around the shaded terrace. Le Somail is also home to the world’s greatest book shop. Set along


❯❯ Oct/Nov 2023 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 67


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96  |  Page 97  |  Page 98  |  Page 99  |  Page 100  |  Page 101  |  Page 102  |  Page 103  |  Page 104  |  Page 105  |  Page 106  |  Page 107  |  Page 108  |  Page 109  |  Page 110  |  Page 111  |  Page 112  |  Page 113  |  Page 114  |  Page 115  |  Page 116  |  Page 117  |  Page 118  |  Page 119  |  Page 120  |  Page 121  |  Page 122  |  Page 123  |  Page 124  |  Page 125  |  Page 126  |  Page 127  |  Page 128  |  Page 129  |  Page 130  |  Page 131  |  Page 132