GERS ❘ SLOW TOURISM
Clockwise from above: Beautiful half-timbered buildings in Cologne; a dovecote at L’Isle-Jourdain; La Mirande de Saint-Clar; Arton’s vineyards; barrels at Arton Armagnac; a subrejoug; the Carillon of the Bastille at the European Museum of Campanile Art; the Mousquetaires salad at Le Comptoir des Colibris; the excellent Maison de l’Ail
was built early as the 10th century around the old church; the second formed as part of the grid-format bastide revolution around a main market square. The English angle is strong: the village was founded in 1289 by Edward I, King of England and Duke of Aquitaine!
The one unmissable cultural draw in Saint-Clar is the Musée de l’École Publique, a back-in-time journey to French school days of yore, housed in the village’s original primary school. The rich collection of school and teaching materials, sound accompaniments, portrait galleries and period photos, with many interactive elements for today’s youngsters to enjoy, goes beyond nostalgia to present social context amid the evolution of public education in France. The classroom, styled with original furniture, chalkboard and maps on the wall, is truly evocative and will bring back strong memories for many, no matter which country they grew up in. With a few charming boutiques and café/bar terraces, Saint-Clar is a lovely place to sit and people watch. Croq’la Vie on place de la Maire winningly combines some fashion rails and décor
items with great dine-in and takeaway options. As it fortuitously turned out, the restaurant would be providing a super tapas box for my evening and overnighter at the magnificent maison d’hôtes on the edge of the village, La Mirande de Saint-Clar. After a warm welcome and cold beer with genial Belgian hosts Hilde and Filiep, we talked about the property’s renovation, a masterful job that will have anyone who dreams of a French hideaway scouring the pages of (France Today’s sister title) French Property News pronto!
WAYS OF THE GRAPE
The next day begins with a stroll around the sublime garden and vines of Château Arton – just outside Lectoure – with host and all-round wine and Armagnac brain Alain Massabie. This Haut- Armagnac domaine crafts Côtes de Gascogne wines and serious Armagnacs.
Continuing the ‘learning’ theme of my slow tourism trip, Alain patiently explains to me the Armagnac distillation process (single instead of the double one of Cognac) and reveals the major challenges facing winemakers, such as climate change and mildew. He also reveals the tricks that winemakers employ to get the best from their vines. He points to a speaker in a vineyard that emits, a few times a day, modulating frequencies through infrabass… learn more of this sonic sorcery with a guided tour and tasting!
❯❯ Oct/Nov 2023 FRANCE TODAY ❘ 73
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