CHILE `


Tierra Patagonia is an archaeological masterpiece, it sinks discreetly into the landscape, to the point of being almost invisible


but attracts a fraction of the crowds. Recent archaeological discoveries include an indigenous Chenque cemetery, along with fossils of dinosaurs who roamed South America’s southern stretches more than 70 million years ago. The estancia’s former farmhouse was converted into a hotel in 2005. But I choose to stay at one of the continent’s wniÃÌ «Ào«iÀÌiiÃ] /iiÀÀ> *>Ì>}oni>] >lÃo ÜiÌhin Ìhi iÃÌ>nVi>½Ã grounds and supported by investment from one of Estancia Cerro Guido’s owners. An archaeological masterpiece, it sinks discreetly into the landscape, to the point of being almost invisible. Built on the shores of the Sarmiento Lake, where 7,000-year-old pumice-like thrombolites create sculptural curiosities, each of the 40 rooms has a view of the water and the towers, which – in my opinion – is better than any vantage point in the park. Whether sat on my window bench, yo>Ìin} in Ìhi in`ooÀ «ool oÀ Ãi««in} «iÃVo ÃoÕÀà >Ì Ìhi cocktail bar, I spend hours gazing through walls of glass as clouds shift, colours change and waves froth with the power of an ocean. “We’ll probably never build a hotel like this again,” admits Miguel Purcell, chief executive of the family business with a portfolio of three high-end properties in Chile. Unlike many hotels in Torres del Paine, Tierra has always


steered clear of puma tours – on the basis many are intrusive and unenjoyable for all parties involved. But, impressed by Pia’s work and ethics, they now offer excursions with FCG. Along with collecting research data, FCG’s key goal is


Ìo Ài`ÕVi inVi`inÌÃ ov hÕm>n Üil`livi VonyiVÌ° ƂlÌhoÕ}h iÌ is illegal to shoot pumas, many gauchos still kill the cats, fearing they pose a threat to livestock. Victor Sharp, a young horse breeder who works at Estancia Cerro Guido, admits he and Pia don’t share the same sentiments regarding pumas.


ª aspiretravelclub.co.uk


ABOVE: TOP: Tierra Patagonia blends into the landscape; MIDDLE: Tierra Patagonia exterior BOTTOM: Uma Spa with Paine Masiff as the backdrop Credits: James Florio; Pia Vergara


SEPTEMBER 2022 ASPIRE


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