54 REGULATIONS
PFAS: powerful chemistry under pressure
Amy Ethier - DSM-Firmenich
For decades, PFAS (Per-and polyfluorinated alkyl substances) have powered innovation, delivering unrivalled durability, flawless performance, and the high efficiency materials that make modern beauty, fashion, and everyday life possible. But the very bonds that make PFAS built to withstand heat, chemicals, water, oil, and time itself, have brought the industry to a pivotal moment, and brands need to take the right next step so that pivot doesn’t turn into a grinding halt. Around the world, regulators are updating and
expanding requirements. Definitions are shifting, and ingredients once considered essential are under unprecedented scrutiny. From the US FDA’s ongoing evaluation under MoCRA (Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022) implementation to accelerating restrictions and phaseouts in multiple jurisdictions, PFAS have gone from quiet workhorses to headline makers, and every brand, formulator, and supplier is now being challenged to innovate faster than ever before. This is the turning point. The industry must
reimagine performance without compromise, delivering the same exceptional feel, stability, and reliability consumers expect, without the regulatory uncertainty that threatens long-term product viability. And that is exactly where the next chapter begins.
Inside PFAS: The molecules, the markets, and the motivation Fluorine, the most electronegative element on the periodic table, possesses a unique combination of electronic and steric properties that drive its strong reactivity and exceptional bond-forming capabilities. Its electronegativity enables fluorine to attract electron density more effectively than any other element, resulting in highly polarized bonds when paired with carbon. This is particularly significant in the context of
per and polyfluorinated alkyl substances (PFAS), where the substitution of hydrogen atoms with fluorine atoms creates carbon–fluorine (C–F) bonds that are among the strongest in organic chemistry. The energy required to break a C–F bond exceeds that of typical carbon–hydrogen or carbon–carbon bonds, imparting remarkable stability to these molecules under thermal, chemical, and environmental stress. This bond strength manifests directly in the
performance attributes that have made PFAS commercially desirable for decades. The tightly packed fluorine shell surrounding the carbon
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE June 2026
backbone creates a barrier that resists oxidation, hydrolysis, and degradation by acids, bases, or biological processes. Additionally, the low polarizability that
results from an atomic structure that holds electrons extremely closely, creates surfaces with exceptionally low surface energy, enabling PFAS molecules to effectively repel water, oils, and other contaminants. Their amphiphilic structures also make them highly effective surfactants capable of reducing surface tension even at very low concentrations. Although the presence of fluorine is the
common denominator of PFAS, the scientific definition of PFAS continues to evolve, with regulatory bodies and researchers debating how broadly the term should be applied. Depending on the framework, PFAS may
refer narrowly to fully fluorinated alkyl chains or more expansively to chemistries that contain any perfluorinated structure.1,2
This variability has
significant implications: in 2018, the OECD and UNEP identified more than 4,700 PFAS substances currently in global commerce,3
underscoring both
the complexity of the chemical landscape and the analytical challenges it presents. This expansive inventory not only highlights
how strongly terminology influences regulatory scope, but also the difficulty of detecting, characterizing, and tracking such chemically
diverse substances across supply chains and product applications.
Substances with utility in every market The properties of PFAS have historically enabled PFAS to excel in applications ranging from stain resistant textiles, nonstick coatings, and firefighting foams to high performance industrial lubricants and semiconductor manufacturing.4 While these sectors demonstrate the broad
reach of PFAS, the central focus of this article is their presence in cosmetics and personal care formulations, an area where their functionality intersects directly with evolving regulations, consumer expectations, and the urgent need for innovation without the use of PFAS. Cosmetics is one of many industries in
which PFAS have played a functional role in product formulation. Owing to their unique physicochemical properties, PFAS are incorporated into cosmetic systems to enhance texture, impart a silky or velvety skin feel, improve spreadability, and provide long-lasting water and smudge resistance. Their ability to act as effective film formers
allows them to create flexible, uniform layers on the skin or hair, contributing to the performance claims associated with long-wear foundations, mascaras, and transfer-resistant lip products.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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