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40 SCALP CARE


relevance for follicle vitality. In vivo, a serum containing 2% cascara


caffeine extract improved perceived scalp health, comfort and vitality over 28 days and additionally provided an immediate sensory impression of scalp activation. Beyond efficacy, the cascara caffeine extract


also responds to current expectations for cosmetic ingredients. Its upcycled origin, traceable sourcing and sustainability story fit well with growing market interest in natural, innovative and responsible ingredients. In addition, its 100% natural origin, COSMOS and NATRUE certification, suitability for vegan formulations and preservative-free profile further support its relevance for modern cosmetic concepts. Taken together, the cascara caffeine extract


offers a distinctive platform for modern scalp-care concepts. It combines stimulation, protection and vitality support in one ingredient, while also connecting performance with sustainability. This makes it an attractive option for product concepts aimed at healthier-looking, more resilient and vital scalp and hair.


References 1. International Coffee Organization. Beyond Coffee: towards a circular coffee economy. Coffee Development Report 202223


2. SernaJiménez A et al. A review on the applications of coffee waste derived from primary processing: strategies for revalorization. Processes. 2022;10(2436):124


3. Otberg N et al. Follicular penetration of topically applied caffeine in vivo. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2007;20(6):445452


4. Winiarz A et al. The influence of caffeine on human hair follicle dermal papilla cells: role in proliferation and gene expression. Mol Med Rep. 2020;21:24472455


5. Visconti MJ et al. Therapeutic use of caffeine in dermatology: a literature review. J Dermatol Dermatol. 2020;24(1):1824


6. Szendzielorz E, Spiewak R. Caffeine as an active ingredient in cosmetic preparations against hair loss: a systematic review. Healthcare. 2025;13(395):116


7. Shetty KS et al. Trigonelline nanocrystalbased topical creams for the treatment of hair loss. Adv Pharm Technol Res. 2024;15(4):297303


8. Mai J. Use of trigonelline to revive, to stimulate and to enhance hair growth. European Patent EP0289639A1


9. Nguyen V et al. Pharmacological activities, therapeutic effects, and mechanistic actions of trigonelline. Int J Mol Sci. 2024;25(3385):122


10. Paus R, Cotsarelis G. The biology of hair follicles. N Engl J Med. 1999;341(7):491497


11. Flores A et al. Lactate dehydrogenase activity drives hair follicle stem cell activation. Nat Cell Biol. 2017;19(9):10121019


12. Matsumura H et al. Hair follicle aging is driven by transepidermal elimination of stem cells via COL17A1 proteolysis. Science. 2016;351:559613


13. Gironde C et al. AOP1, a new live cell assay for the direct and quantitative measure of intracellular antioxidant effects. Antioxidants. 2020;9(471):116


PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE June 2026 0% 0% A


Increase in positive rating for scalp health parameters


Overall scalp health 12.5% 25.0% * 0.0% 25.0% 37.5%


Feeling of scalp irritation 50.0%


* -6.3% 18.8%


62.5% 62.5%


6.3% PCM 37.5% 43.8%


Scalp dryness *


Hair vitality 50.0%


* 0.0% 18.8% 31.3%


Hair protection from daily stress 37.5%


*


12.5% 0.0%


43.8% 50.0% * *


Agreement 50%


100%


Figure 5: The cascara caffeine extract improves perceived scalp health and vitality. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized study, 32 women applied a serum containing 2% cascara caffeine extract or placebo to the scalp twice daily for 28 days. At baseline, day 14 and day 28, participants rated scalp-related parameters on a scale from 1 (poor condition) to 10 (good condition). Panel A shows the increase in positive ratings (scores 6–10) expressed as % change versus baseline. Panel B shows representative scalp images obtained at baseline, day 14 and day 28 after treatment with 2% cascara caffeine extract. N = 16 per group. Statistical significance between positive and negative responses was assessed using the sign and binomial tests; * p < 0.05


Immediate effect experienced by consumer 63%


I feel an immediate sense of scalp activation 75%


I feel an immediate boost of vitality 50%


75% 50% Agreement


Figure 6: Cascara caffeine extract provides an immediate sensory impression of scalp activation and vitality. After completing the 28-day study, volunteers were asked whether they experienced an immediate sense of scalp activation or an immediate boost of vitality after product applications. Responses were rated on a four-point scale from strongly disagree to strongly agree. Bars show the percentage of positive responses (ratings 3–4), normalized to 100%


www.personalcaremagazine.com 100% *


Treatment with 2% Cascara caffeine extract


■ D14 - Placebo ■ D28 - Placebo ■ D14 - 2% Cascara Caffeine Extract ■ D28 - 2% Cascara Caffeine Extract


* *


*


56.3% 56.3%


* *


Feeling of scalp comfort B


Scalp Health Images


Placebo ■ 2% Cascara Caffeine Extract ■


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