SCALP CARE 37
Upcycled coffee cherry botanical for follicle longevity
Bernd Walzel, Anja Herrmann, Beatrix Senti, Tamina Shahzad, Ulrike Bätz, Stefan Bänziger - Lipoid Kosmetik ABSTRACT
For many consumers, coffee is almost synonymous with the bean. Yet the coffee cherry contains more than the bean alone. Its outer layer, known as cascara, is separated during coffee processing as a byproduct and is still largely discarded (Figure 1). However, cascara has strong cosmetic
potential. It retains the familiar stimulation story associated with the well-loved world of coffee, while adding a new botanical dimension. At the same time, it carries a strong upcycling story and aligns well with current interest in natural, sustainable and innovative ingredients. In addition, cascara offers a rich phytochemical
profile with both stimulating and protective bioactives. This combination of coffee association, stimulation, novelty, sustainability and upcycling makes cascara especially attractive for cosmetic applications.1,2
Organic, traceable and upcycled: cascara from Brazil For the cascara caffeine extract, Lipoid Kosmetik sources organic cascara from Brazil through a traceable supply chain linked to responsible coffee farming. The raw material comes from a family business in Pedra Azul, Espírito Santo, that has
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been committed to sustainable coffee cultivation since the 1960s. The cascara is harvested manually, gently sun-dried on raised beds and further processed on-site. This controlled handling supports both phytochemical quality and full traceability. As a result, the cascara caffeine extract
combines responsible sourcing with cosmetic functionality, transforming a byproduct of coffee production into a value-added botanical active. It also aligns with current expectations for transparent and sustainability-oriented ingredient sourcing.
Phytochemistry – Coffee energy meets botanical protection The objective of this study was to compare the phytochemical composition of the cascara caffeine extract with pure caffeine and other coffee-based botanical extracts used in cosmetic hair care, in order to assess its combined potential for scalp vitality and protection. A comparative phytochemical analysis was
performed to characterize the main bioactive compounds present in the cascara caffeine extract. The investigation focused on caffeine, trigonelline,
Caffeine is among the best-studied molecules in cosmetic science and is widely used in concepts centred on stimulation and vitality for skin, scalp and hair care. Cascara, the dried outer shell of the coffee cherry, is a byproduct of coffee production that is emerging as a promising new botanical. Its particular strength lies in building on the widely known and well-loved coffee concept, yet introducing a new botanical dimension through cascara. This combination of familiarity, novelty together with its exceptional phytochemical richness makes cascara attractive for cosmetic concepts. This article introduces Cascara Pro (hereafter called the cascara caffeine extract), a propanediol-aqueous extract from organic coffee cherry cascara (Coffea arabica L.), enriched with natural caffeine and developed for scalp and hair care. Phytochemically, the cascara caffeine extract brings together the best of two worlds: the well-known stimulating activity of caffeine and the broader protective properties of cascara extract. Comparative phytochemical analysis showed that the cascara caffeine extract provides a broader bioactive profile than pure caffeine alone and a stronger stimulation concept than conventional coffee- based botanical extracts. In vitro, the active significantly reduced intracellular free radical formation in human hair follicle cells. In vivo, a serum containing 2% cascara caffeine extract improved perceived scalp health, comfort and vitality over 28 days and also produced an immediate sensory impression of scalp activation in a placebo-controlled consumer study. Taken together, these findings position the cascara caffeine extract as a coffee-based cosmetic concept that combines sustainability with proven scalp-care efficacy
polyphenols, tannins and flavonoids, as these constituents are associated with stimulation, antioxidant protection and overall scalp health (Figure 2). The results showed that the cascara caffeine
extract combines features of both categories. As a cascara-derived botanical extract, it provides a rich profile of trigonelline, polyphenols, tannins and flavonoids, contributing protective and antioxidant-related properties.
June 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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