SCALP CARE 39
preserve cellular vitality and support the long- term resilience of hair follicle cells.
Consumers feel the difference: healthier scalp, greater vitality The objective of this study was to evaluate the consumer experience of a hair serum containing the cascara caffeine extract, with particular focus on perceived effects on scalp health, scalp comfort and sensory scalp activation. A double-blind, placebo-controlled, randomized
in vivo study was carried out in 32 women aged 18–59 years with sensitive scalp. Volunteers applied either a leave-on serum containing 2% cascara caffeine extract or a placebo serum to the scalp twice daily for 28 days. Self-assessment of scalp condition and product performance was recorded at baseline, day 14 and day 28. The results showed clear improvements in
perceived scalp condition with the active serum. After 28 days, positive ratings versus baseline reached 56.3% for overall scalp health, 50% for scalp comfort, 62.5% for reduced irritation, 50% for reduced dryness, 37.5% for hair vitality and 50% for protection from daily stress. Representative scalp images also indicated a visible improvement in scalp appearance over the course of treatment (Figure 5). In addition to these longer-term benefits,
the cascara caffeine extract also provided an immediate sensory effect. After product application, 75% of users reported an immediate sense of scalp activation, and 75% reported an immediate boost of vitality, compared with lower values for placebo (Figure 6). Overall, these findings show that the cascara
caffeine extract supports scalp health and vitality both through perceived long-term improvement and through immediate sensory activation, making it well suited for modern scalp care concepts.
Conclusion The cascara caffeine extract illustrates how a byproduct of coffee production can be transformed into a relevant and substantiated cosmetic active for modern scalp care. By combining organic cascara with natural caffeine, the ingredient unites two complementary dimensions: the familiar stimulation concept associated with coffee and caffeine, and the broader protective phytochemical richness of
Hair Follicle Cells From Scalp of a Human Donor
Transferred to Cell Culture for Testing
100 50 0 Light Exposure (Number of Light Flashes)
Figure 4: The cascara caffeine extract provides antioxidant protection in primary human hair follicle cells. Real-time intracellular free radical formation under light-induced stress was measured after preincubation with increasing concentrations of the cascara caffeine extract for one hour and loading with a fluorescent biosensor. Fluorescence was monitored over 24 LED excitation cycles. Data are shown as mean ± SD from three independent experiments. Student’s t-test versus untreated; *** p < 0.001
www.personalcaremagazine.com June 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
Figure 3: The mode of action can be understood as a three-part concept linking protection, stimulation and longevity support. It combines the phytochemical richness of cascara with the well- established activity of caffeine to support scalp and follicle function in a broader way than a simple energizing concept. Polyphenols, tannins and flavonoids contribute protective effects by helping defend scalp and follicle structures against oxidative and environmental stress, thereby supporting scalp comfort and resilience. Caffeine and trigonelline add a stimulating dimension associated with microcirculation, metabolic activity, dermal papilla support and scalp vitality. Together, these protective and stimulating effects support follicular longevity by helping maintain cellular activity, vitality and resilience over time3-12
cascara. This gives rise to a more balanced activity profile that goes beyond a caffeine-only approach and also differs from conventional coffee-based botanical extracts.
This positioning is supported by several layers
of evidence. Comparative phytochemical analysis showed that the cascara caffeine extract combines
caffeine with trigonelline, polyphenols, tannins and flavonoids, supporting both stimulating and protective properties. In vitro, the extract significantly reduced
intracellular free radical formation in primary human hair follicle dermal papilla cells, highlighting its antioxidant potential and its
Suppression of Free Radicals -32% ***
-68% *** -92% ***
■ 0% - Cascara Caffeine Extract ■ 0.4% - Cascara Caffeine Extract ■ 0.75% Cascara Caffeine Extract ■ 1.5% Cascara Caffeine Extract
Free Radical Formation (%)
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