COVER STORY: SILAB
The natural bulwark against skin dryness
The skin is the body’s first line of defence, ensured by the barrier function role of the stratum corneum. When this barrier function is altered, the skin progressively loses its defence capabilities, making it vulnerable to dehydration and redness, but also to premature and visible signs of skin ageing. In particular, this is the case for dry skin or skin irritated by the use of certain molecules such as retinol. Consumers are aware of this essential role
of the skin and so are increasingly selecting care products combining protection and comfort. Restructuring active ingredients are therefore strategic solutions. Silab thus developed a restructuring natural
active ingredient that targets the lipid disorders of dry skin: Neolipyl®.
Lipids, key player in skin protection The relationship between modification of the barrier function and the perturbation of lipids is nowadays commonly admitted. From a functional standpoint, the stratum corneum is composed of stacked corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix in a brick-and-mortar system. This naturally hydrophobic shield prevents water losses from the skin and its efficacy depends on its composition (ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids) and on its structure (conformation and organization). It is therefore recognized that these two
parameters are to be taken into account in order
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molecule to deal with skin ageing. In spite of the elevated interest of retinol in cosmetics, however, it may cause adverse effects. The resulting unpleasantness is caused by
an alteration of the cutaneous barrier and can be explained by its exfoliating properties. Using retinol can indeed dry the skin, lead to the appearance of redness and cause tightness and itching.
With this in mind, Silab decided to study the
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to maintain the role of the stratum corneum. Even so, currently available scientific data provide only a partial vision of the extent of modifications of the lipid matrix when the barrier function is altered.
Neolipyl - lipid restructuring for dry skin Silab decided to leverage its dual expertise in omics technologies (lipidomic study) and optical biopsies and developed an unprecedented modeling study to establish the lipid signature of dry skin: the results demonstrate weakened composition and structure of the lipid matrix. Tested on this model, Neolipyl re-equilibrates this lipid matrix: epidermal lipids synthesis is restored, and their conformation and organization are optimized. By targeting lipid disorders of dry skin,
Neolipyl restores skin barrier integrity. These effects translate into rapid benefits observed on Caucasian and Asian dry skin as early as 14 days of twice-daily application: microrelief is smoothed, and skin hydration and comfort are improved. Comparative studies have demonstrated a niacinamide-like efficacy.
A natural partner of retinol Used in cosmetics for almost a half-century, retinol has a powerful anti-ageing efficacy. It is known to reduce wrinkles, attenuate imperfections, limit senescence spots, smooth skin grain and improve complexion radiance. These multiple benefits have made it a reference
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properties of Neolipyl combined with retinol when applied to normal skin. When formulated in combination with this reference molecule, Neolipyl proves to be an asset: the active ingredient limits its adverse effects (dryness, discomfort, redness, etc.), without altering its anti-wrinkle efficacy. Neolipyl also significantly improves the positive effect of retinol on complexion radiance.
Obtained from a certified organic raw material Neolipyl was developed using flowering tops of cornflowers, especially due to the proline-rich composition of this plant. In the skin, proline can notably be found in the
form of proline-rich proteins. These proteins are coded by the epidermal differentiation complex, a set of genes involved in the correct functioning of the stratum corneum. Among those proteins, some are known for their capacity to maintain integrity of the barrier function. Consequently, these characteristics make
proline-rich proteins particularly interesting for the development of an active ingredient targeting dry skin needs. Silab has therefore extracted the proline-rich peptide fraction of Neolipyl using a natural process of enzyme engineering. Silab relies on French producers certified for
organic agriculture for its supply of cornflowers. The selection of these suppliers is Silab’s guarantee of traceability of the flowering tops of cornflowers back to the plot of land. A genuine lipid restructuring agent and natural
partner of retinol, Neolipyl is a patented active ingredient recommended in all cares intended for the skin barrier.
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Silab
Z.I. de la Nau, 19240 Saint-Viance, France Tel: +33(0)5 55 84 58 40 Email:
silab@silab.fr |
www.silab.fr
February 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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